Revised "Builders Guide"

T

Terry Burtz Calif

Senior Member
The new engine "Builders Guide" has been revised and is dated 29 March 2024.

It can be viewed here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1T9Rg5eJZW4uUZjY3Fr4mi6q1TSD8Q9DD/view

Changes include a statement that deflectors are needed at the bottom of the valve chamber to reduce oil consumption, a statement that time will be saved if the adjustable valve lifters are adjusted to a length of 2.50 inches before assembly, a part number callout for Michigan bearings, a recommendation that a steel crankshaft timing gear should be used, a note regarding the water pump thrust surface in the 6.5 head will be made larger, a description and source of an adapter that enlarges the cork groove in the rear main cap to allow the use of a stock Model B oil pan for those that want to utilize a V-8 transmission. Section 18) has been changed to eliminate Builders that overcharge, demonstrate poor workmanship, and refuse to follow the "Builders Guide". Section 18) also lists new builders and parts suppliers that are competent.

Please contact me if you have any questions or want to suggest a change to the next revision of the "Builders Guide".
 
I too recommend a steel crank gear. I broke a brand new cast iron gear while racing at Bonneville. An aluminum cam gear is very adequate for any street engine, I use a bronze gear for racing.

I recommend adjusting the valves with only the crank and cam installed, it lets the engine rotate much easier.
 
Terry Burtz said:
The new engine "Builders Guide" has been revised and is dated 29 March 2024.

It can be viewed here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1T9Rg5eJZW4uUZjY3Fr4mi6q1TSD8Q9DD/view

Changes include a statement that deflectors are needed at the bottom of the valve chamber to reduce oil consumption, a statement that time will be saved if the adjustable valve lifters are adjusted to a length of 2.50 inches before assembly, a part number callout for Michigan bearings, a recommendation that a steel crankshaft timing gear should be used, a note regarding the water pump thrust surface in the 6.5 head will be made larger, a description and source of an adapter that enlarges the cork groove in the rear main cap to allow the use of a stock Model B oil pan for those that want to utilize a V-8 transmission. Section 18) has been changed to eliminate Builders that overcharge, demonstrate poor workmanship, and refuse to follow the "Builders Guide". Section 18) also lists new builders and parts suppliers that are competent.

Please contact me if you have any questions or want to suggest a change to the next revision of the "Builders Guide".
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Terry, as I read through this document, I can not help but think of all those other things that go along with starting a business. How time consuming, and thought out. Good for you for being serious about producing quality.

When I bought my last engine your engine was not ready yet. I wish I had one of yours. I tell people that your engine will last longer than any of the guys in our club will last.
 
Terry,

Has there been any issues with the roller spring clip for controlling oil coming out of the holes?

By the way, Thank you.
 
nkaminar said:
Terry,

Has there been any issues with the roller spring clip for controlling oil coming out of the holes?

By the way, Thank you.
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Thanks for your question.
I am not aware of any problems with the deflectors.
A few people have mentioned bending the bottom of the roller spring clips for better retention.

John Lampl will be in China in April and deflectors will be discussed.
 
Talk to your friend Ted Kafer. He came up with a nice design for the deflectors. They can be added without removing the pan. The clips for the roller latches are probably not the ideal shape. If you are going to make your own, that opens up the possibility for a new shape.
 

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For Bruce:

There have been reports of too much oil getting splashed into the valve chamber on the Burtz engine which causes too much oil burning.
 

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Too much oil gets splashed into the valve chamber. The oil comes from the rods throwing oil after the bearing are lubricated and from the 4 oil trays that the rods dip into. The rods are pressure lubricated but oil still fills up the trays.
 
Oil gets flung up through those holes? I'm sure you're right, I just wouldn't have thought it. Are stock blocks affected similarly or do the extra mains have the effect?
 
Stock blocks do not have this problem (they have other problems). The stock block does not have the 4 large holes in the bottom of the valve chamber.
 
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