retorquing heads,where do i start?

thanks flatjack you didnt have any broken bolts or water leaks? and you did the torque cold then warm and retorque after cooling? after this process did you go back to 45ftlbs?
 
Ol' Ron said:
It could also break bolts and strip threads. I don't kow if 45 lbs is the factiry autherised torque settings. But, I've been doing this for over 50 years, this doesn't mean I'm right, just old. Besides you end up with more clamping force than a blown Hemi on nitro.
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Hey Ol' Ron,
Two thots/questions:
First, if head bolts are torqued beyond what Ford recommended, is there such a thing as the possibility of distorting/pulling the BLOCK so that cylinder holes are affected?
Second, have you ever used a RETORQUEING process where each head bolt (one at a time) is slightly backed off...then with one motion, taking the bolt to desired torque? Have you used this method or have any thots regarding its use?
BTW- I have experimented with this 'back off' retorqueing method. I was amazed at what I found...using a good torque wrench to measure BOTH the torque it took to break loose head bolt (to back off), then the amount of movement of head bolt to get to desired torque. NOTE: Mark bolt head to determine amount of movement
At one time, I stopped a head gasket leak...using this method..when nothing else seemed to work, short of taking head off again,etc
 
hombres ruin said:
thanks flatjack you didnt have any broken bolts or water leaks? and you did the torque cold then warm and retorque after cooling? after this process did you go back to 45ftlbs?
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When I build an engine, I torque to 45 lb, then run the engine dry to just get a little heat in it. After cooling, I retorque to 45 lb. then fill with coolant and run again. Cool and retorque. I do use the backing off technique. I don't have problems with leaks as a rule and have never broken a bolt while torqueing. I would be more worried about the threads in the block, but again I have not experienced this problem.
 
flatjack9 said:
Done it many times just as I have posted.
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Yes, the circle has closed and this has been answered and beat to death.

Just get out your torque wrench ,snug those headbolts up to 45 and drive down the road. You won't hurt anything.
 
The aluminum heads will not stand the torque value as a stock cast iron head, the aluminum head can deform/warp and actually crack on the gasket surface side.

Vergil
 

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I think Ford had a listed different torque spec for alluminum. I was taught to torque to 45 on an unknown engine and 55 on a known good one..
 
hombres ruin said:
Flatjack and hard times could you please explain the "back off " technique when torquing
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If youse don't shoot a horse 'correctly' , you are going to have a very bad situation/job to finish,eh! So , I'm going to take a careful first/last shot....regarding 'back off' technique to answer this barners inquiry;).
As you noticed, Flatjack uses this procedure...as do I..mabe no others:
For retorqueing: ONE headbolt at a time...using same tightening sequence as when first time torqued. Loosen the headbolt mabe half turn, then with one clean motion...torque wrench set at ft/lb that you want to finish with..pull the torque wrench thru till it clicks/registers the final value you seek. Do EACH bolt like this till finish.
NOTE: I use a clicker wrench and sometimes write down the torque that it took to 'break' the bolt loose. You will no doubt be surprised sometimes..at what you will find. I mark each bolt (chalk) position prior to loosening and then note the same bolts position when using this method..notice anything different:eek: Good luck! As I said previously , this method sealed a gasket , for me, that would NOT seal any other way.
 
Never used the back off procedure. Torque to 35 alum, 45 cast never had a problem yet.

Re- torque it see if it works. Dont over think it. And if that doesnt work replace the gaskets and run through the proven procedure. Torque, run, cool, torque. Then you now the condition your condition is in.

2cents
 
But, I've been doing this for over 50 years, this doesn't mean I'm right, just old.

No, it means you are experienced, and have not had failures with your approach. In other words, your approach has been proven to work over the last 50 years. Works for me!
 
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