Resplining a solid driveshaft

When the shaft comes back from the shop, mount the axle with the pinion sticking straight up, and put the shaft on the pinion so it is vertical. You can check the runout at the front end of the shaft by rotating it. You need to use judgement, and take into account any play between the coupler and the pinion splines. The shaft can be bought into line by running welds on the opposite side to the runout at the bottom near the coupler.

I did this on my roadster and it worked really well. I checked the torque tube in a similar way, and was able to correct some considerable misalignment in the squareness of the flange by pulling it with welds.

I did a write up on one of the forums, if anyone is interested I could post a link (If I can find it).

Mart.
 
Maybe like this? this is a short input shaft, can be done on a lathe too.
No matter what like said welding a lathe is needed just sayin
 

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There is one thing to watch out for on the 6-10 spline reproduction adapter.
I had one turned down and welded in a tube drive shaft. The coupler splines were not centered with the od. So the whole drive shaft was off center when on the pinion. You would need to center the coupler on the splines and also check that they are not cut off axis to the length.

John
 
We cut splines in the CNC lathe with driven tools.
Best profile would be with the correct cutter in a horizontal mill with indexing chuck.
With standard tooling you have to cut deeper then the intended inner profile and have it center on the outer diameter.
 
No telling where the 10 to 6 adapters are coming from now days. Next time I get one I'll now have to check the concentricity of the bore & spline jobs with the OD of the adapter. Typical modern resto parts.
 
My though is welding it together with the Spline being a solid (thick) piece of steel being welded to a (Thin) hollow shaft thin tube it should be Cooled at the same rate or normalized after welding. Jas
 
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