Resizing Perch Bolt Holes
- Thread starter dcnner
- Start date
I am thinking of doing the same thing - repairing the shackle holes in the perch bolts. I was going to MIG weld (with gas) the outer edges, using a die grinder, dress the welds down on the ends and around the outside to make them look like before they were worn. I was then going to use a large rattail file to file the hole out to the correct size. With the file, I can avoid making the hole too large as it will take only a little material off at a time. I am going to use a shackle bushing to test that the size is correct. I don't think you can weld very far into the hole. My spring perches are not worn very badly, mostly on the ends and outer part of the hole where the wear is. There is still a lot of original material left on the spring perch, so I don't think welding the perches will be a safety problem.
LukeDahlinger
BANNED
I think you'd be better off finding a better axle. They are plentiful & cheap.
Craig Lewis
Well-known member
Measure the OD of your new bushing and make a pin the same size from copper, brass or a carbon rod (if one is available to you) With the pin inserted, you'll find the weld flows nicely right up to and encircling the pin... without sticking!
Once you knock free the pin, the hole will be perfect... or as far as to where the weld reaches at least.
I made a brass pin and used a mig wire feed with gas shield on the highest amperage.
Tip: If you're struggling with a welder of slightly inadaquate power, one trick is to preheat the target weld area with a simple propane torch. I would stop just before it glows, although ANY amount of preheat makes a tremendous difference towards a nicer penetrating bead.
Finally, I always like to practice on a similiar shaped piece of scrap, before endangering real Ford iron.
Once you knock free the pin, the hole will be perfect... or as far as to where the weld reaches at least.
I made a brass pin and used a mig wire feed with gas shield on the highest amperage.
Tip: If you're struggling with a welder of slightly inadaquate power, one trick is to preheat the target weld area with a simple propane torch. I would stop just before it glows, although ANY amount of preheat makes a tremendous difference towards a nicer penetrating bead.
Finally, I always like to practice on a similiar shaped piece of scrap, before endangering real Ford iron.
Mike V. Florida
Well-known member
Stick a piece of copper pipe in the hole and tig/mig weld up the shackles. If the pipe is too large cut a slit along the lenght so it will squeeze and fit. Some have used graphite rods as well.
As for the perch ends in the axle, I've never heard of them getting loose.
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BRENT in 10-uh-C
Well-known member
Smaller by "how much"?? Smaller as .005" - .010", ...or smaller as to be able to adapt a different spindle and/or perch? I am of the opinion that if it is for the latter, you will need a mill, lathe, and a press to be able to slightly bore each hole back round and then make an interference-fit plug that can be inserted into the beam and then bored to the new size at the precise angle. Does this help?
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