Reproduction U-joint Quality

The only negative comment that I saw is the u-joint is larger than the original, so it may rub on the housing cap.
 
I was not able to use it as it is larger in outside diameter and did rub on the clamshell preventing installation
 
The one on the left may rub on the inner u-joint cap.
 

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I have heard that some of the repo U-joints caused vibration as they weren't as well "balanced" in terms of rotational mass as the original Spicer design units. I have only ever rebuilt the originals and was careful to reassemble the two halves in the same orientation as they came.
 
U joints are not constant velocity. So if the engine is not lined up with the drive shaft the U joint, even if perfectly balanced, could cause some vibration. Ever wonder why the engine is slanted on the frame to match the drive shaft?
 
The repro in the picture looks like the bushings are tight to the cross unlike the original that has movement that is needed because both the input and output ride on bearings so the u joint has to allow for alignment issues unlike a open driveshaft that needs to be aligned by the fit of the u joint.
being tight there could cause vibrations.
There are misconceptions of wear with original ones because of the normal movement side to side.
 
Is your original u-joint bad? If it's the Ford style that's riveted together don't just replace it because folks say the modern Spicer style unit is better. If it has significant wear, that's definitely an issue. If the rivets are loose, that's definitely an issue. If it does not fall into either of those categories, I'd use the original over what is most likely a foreign reproduction.
 
My original u-joint has a lot of wear. It has rivets and I believe is the type that can't be rebuilt. I plan on getting used original that can be rebuilt. That brings up another question: Are there good rebuild kits available or are there quality issues with those as well?
 
PaintShaker said:
My original u-joint has a lot of wear. It has rivets and I believe is the type that can't be rebuilt. I plan on getting used original that can be rebuilt. That brings up another question: Are there good rebuild kits available or are there quality issues with those as well?
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Bratton's appears to have the rebuild kits in stock. I've seen Snyders have them over the years but they don't appear right now.

https://www.brattons.com/UNIVERSAL-JOINT-REPAIR-KIT/productinfo/10410/

BTW, Summit Racing stocks the Bob Drake universal joint, which I've heard is pretty solid. Or you can go direct to the manufacturer. I have a new one I picked up from a club member but haven't installed it yet, keeping it as a spare for now.
 
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Hoping someone could provide some technical knowledge on Bob Drake U-Joints for Model A application. A while back I was searching for a U-Joint for my 31. I ordered an off shore unit and was disappointed by the poor quality. The Bob Drake unit looked good on line so I considered getting one. I read somewhere that the Bob Drake units were different than a Model A OEM design. When handling an original unit it is obvious the spider has a radial degree of freedom such that the journals actually slide outward in the bearing end caps. When installed, the spider is kept centered by a roller bearing at the end of the driveshaft. The Bob Drake units appear to be similar with more modern units in that the spider is positively kept centered by the non through bore end caps which do not allow any radial movement which is typically used on modern vehicles with external drive shafts. If using a Bob Drake unit in a Model A, the suggestion I read recommended removing the driveshaft roller bearing to avoid any potential binding , vibration, or premature wear. I was lucky to locate a new OEM unit but now know they are difficult to find. If I have to resort to a Bob Drake unit next time I would like to know if this roller bearing in/out issue makes any difference. Welcome input.
 
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