Repro carb still too rich!

Add to last post. The diagram you are using looks like a wireing diagram for a nuclular plant. Get a simpler one. Tony
 
Tony,

I never had the problem with the original carb. Original carb had some other issues.
I happen to like the nuclear plant diagram :)
 
Maybe your choke knob may be turning but the shaft dosn't turn. If you had the same problem on the old carb, Check it out, Tony
 
MrTube

I just joined The Ford Barn because I'm having the exact same problem. I would really like to know what the final fix is for the too rich problem. Thanks
 
Hi Easy Rider,

I have yet to figure out the problem. I removed the GAV and it seems the needle is bottoming out in the sleeve rather then the jet. I did not look down into the carb where the seat \ jet for the GAV is yet. I have a feeling something isn't quite right with it though.
 
MrTube

I live close to Bratton's and work with them a lot. Tom, their mechanic, will be in tomorrow and I'm going to call him to see what he says. I'll let you know.
 
Easy Rider said:
MrTube

I live close to Bratton's and work with them a lot. Tom, their mechanic, will be in tomorrow and I'm going to call him to see what he says. I'll let you know.
Click to expand...

Easy Rider, I guess you are using a reproduction carb from them as well? Please do let me know when you get it figured out.


One thing I want to make clear. I have NO problem with Bratton's. Whenever I have had a problem they are always friendly and willing to help out. If I have a problem with a part they ALWAYS make it right.

I just don't feel its right for me to contact them regarding a carb I bought over a year ago. Perhaps I'm being stupid and stubborn, I don't know. ;)
 
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I understand. I saw one of your first posting where you spoke highly of Bratton's.

I don't know if my carb is a repro. The carb was on the truck when I bought it. Last fall, Tom (Bratton's mechanic) went though my carb and replaced gaskets. Other than that, he said mine was as good as the reproduction carbs they sell off the shelf.
 
If the needle valve does not have threads running high enough up the shaft (up into the 1/2 flat area on the shaft itself) it will cause this exact issue.

Mine was the same way until I threaded the GAV needle about 3-4 more threads higher, and now it seats perfectly and does it's job. Seems there was some of the GAV needles floating around that did not have enough threading to allow full closure against the seat.

Hope this helps

- Dave
 
by the way, fully agree that Brattons is absolute *Aces* to work with.. Have always been there for me and always friendly and helpful :)
 
MrTube and Dave

I think I've fixed the problem. It's definitely with the GAV.

I removed the bottom of the carb. I removed the GAV housing and the needle expecting to thread the needle 2 or 3 more times as Dave suggested. My needle was already threaded 2 or 3 threads up the flat of the needle.

I screwed the needle into the housing while it was off the carb. The needle threaded in the housing below the flush point. I removed the needle, put the housing back on the carb, and threaded the needle back into the housing. When the needle because flush with the housing, it bottomed out in the seat. I know this because the needle threaded in much further when the housing was off the carb.

I put it back on the truck, started it up and the problem seems to be gone. I need to drive it some to make sure.

The only thing I can figure is the needle must have not been tight enough in the housing.

MrTube... try the same thing. See if it fixes your problem.
 
Cool beans :) Glad to hear some success! I also put a drop of engine oil on the threads of the GAV needle, as sometimes the threads will generate enough friction to give you a "false tight" turining in the GAV without actually moving the needle any closer to the gav seat..
 
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