Repo light switch body questions

Yea I hear ya.... Then mounting the repo to the collumn with the bail wire is another issue that u didn't even get to yet..
Good luck
 
Yup, I will have to look at my repo bail wire and see if it is anywhere near the same as my original one. I can clean up and reuse the original, but it will be interesting to see how close that repo one is to it, too. :-)
 
I think I tried to modify the diameter of the repo contact plate ending up taking off too much and then having to build it back with epoxy.
Bob
 
I just found this thread and have redone my light wiring on my 30 Tudor, including the swith housing that I lovingly refer to as the "egg" the spider, spring and all at the end of the steering column. Someone had broken off one side of the spider that rotated the 3 point contactor by some heavy handed fooling with the switch and the plastic plate with contacts burned up. After the replacement I have had problems with light staying on in either high or low beam or the carriage lights and believe the contacts must be loose. Also, now the led turn signals which are a totally separate system are dim and flashing rapidly with both sides blinking regardless of which side is activated. I had no trouble getting the "egg" back together but had a devil of a time getting it and the bail back on every time I have tried to adjust it. Any suggestions on tightening the contact between the 3 point plate and the plastic disk on the wiring harness?
 
If there is an Autozone nearby they have tail pipe expander as a part of their borrow a tool program. You pay for the expander and get your money back when you return it.
 
I am learning from all of the above comments, but I have not installed my new light switch body, just yet. I have a couple of projects all going at the same time, so this one has taken a back stage at present. I purchased a couple of replacement light switch bodies in order to try to clean up at leas tone and make it workable.

The only one I really had difficulty with in joining the two pieces together was the repop one. One of the extra light switch bodies I had was full of old grease, grime and what ever inside. The outside looked as if someone had taken under coat paint and sprayed it down, but it cleaned up fairly easily. I was thinking that some Brasso may help to clean the contacts inside, but I have not tried it. Heat actually melts the grease and makes it even worse to remove. I used a vinegar and water bath and had some good luck with cleaning the parts with that. Some grease and grime is still lodged behind that spring and plastic part inside the lower portion of the light switch body, but qtips seemed to get most of it out. Like say, I have not hooked up my wiring harness just yet, so I am not sure if I made any gains or not at this point.

I have one more light switch body on order, so I can't wait to see what condition it is in and if I can make it work or not to replace the old light switch body that i had started with.

Someone else may answer your questions better as to the plastic piece and contacts on it. Someone here had some old harnesses that they had picked up for a buck at a swap meet. If they still have such, you may be able to get them to sell you a harness and use the plastic piece from it to see if that swap would be effective or not. Someone may have one they would give you if you asked. Good luck with a fix.
 
ICSLAW. I had what sounds like the same problem where the two halves fit together but the return on the bayonet female part is too deep and allows the locked parts to move apart, spoiling the tight contact of the spring buttons and insulated plate. Look up "repop light switch fix" under my postings for a photo of how I fixed this. I don't know how to post a link to this old post of mine.
I will try and work it out tomorrow. It is midnight here in NZ.
SAJ in NZ
 
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Yes that's great Coupe194.2.
Could you tell me how you make that link please.
SAJ in NZ
 
1. I took the title of the thread you mentioned and used it in the search box here to find the piece in the archives.

2. I then right clicked at the top and copied it.

3. Then I went back to answer your response here in this thread and pasted it into my response.

Hope that explains it enough. I am not so good at explaining how to do such on a computer. I didn't know if it would work or not and there may be a much simpler way of doing it, but it seems to ahve worked like this.
 
Thanks Coupe1942. I work on my Samsung tablet. At the top right is "more". If I open this I can get "share" then "copy to clipboard" amongst many other choices. I can then paste what I copied into the message box, and this gives the link to the whole page I was on, but it pastes the whole page of replies, not just one reply as you have managed to do, complete with picture. I guess I need to practice in the preview part and then delete my practices if they don't work
Her is a trial attempt
http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1239454#post1239454

It works! But I got J Franklin's reply too, whereas you did not. OH! I see you did too. I did not scroll down far enough.
I need more practice.
Many thanks for your guidance. It is much easier to do on a PC, but I like to read Ford Barn in front of the TV after work or in bed at night or morning as relaxation. So I always use a 9 inch tablet.
Thanks again
SAJ IN NZ
 
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You cannot make junk non junk. Return it if you can or throw it away and take your lumps. Then call Steve and see if he has an original.
 
I have no idea as to who Steve is, but I did call Bert's and they had no originals at present, but will contact me when they get any. I did post a wanted ad and received some to use.

It seems that a common issue is the amount of grease, debris and gunk inside the metal bodies. Trying to remove all that junk can be tricky, but i have had some success with the original ones i received. Not ready to fully install my new wiring harness just yet, so I'll have to wait a bit to see how the light switch body I chose to ultimately use works out for me.

Thanks for all the tips and opinions.
 
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