Replacing the Floor
- Thread starter Pech33
- Start date
Kube
Super Moderator
V8COOPMAN
Well-known member
I posted these pictures yesterday of the bracing that Kube used in the last '40 convertible that he restored. As Kube said, "You can't over-brace the body." Hopefully, these will help. Kube does some nice work, eh? DD
Kube
Super Moderator
Thans for posting those pictures Coopman. Now I don't have to look for them.
To further stress the importance of bracing: I'd been asked to complete a restoration of a 40 convertible a few years back. The owner had replaced the floors and painted the car. A decent paint job for certain. The issue? POOR bracing.
He had to shim the cowl to frame over 1 1/4" to get the body to align.
Needless to say, I didn't take this job on. I would have had to cut the floors out and start over.
If I were to hazard a guess, the car was never completed.
To further stress the importance of bracing: I'd been asked to complete a restoration of a 40 convertible a few years back. The owner had replaced the floors and painted the car. A decent paint job for certain. The issue? POOR bracing.
He had to shim the cowl to frame over 1 1/4" to get the body to align.
Needless to say, I didn't take this job on. I would have had to cut the floors out and start over.
If I were to hazard a guess, the car was never completed.
V8COOPMAN
Well-known member
I'd bet that Kube would also suggest that if possible, have the soft top in the UP position and LATCHED when you go about fitting and building your bracing. Buy what do I know? DD
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V8COOPMAN
Well-known member
Pech...I have no intention to insult you, but you obviously don't understand a couple of things. Firstly, how ya gonna replace a floor that is bolted to the frame?
Secondly, the top of the windshield frame and everything below it (firewall, dash, cowl, etc.) can tilt forward, OR rearward, in relation to the rear quarters on each side. I'd look at KUBE's pictures very carefully and try to get a grasp on exactly what they are doing...in other words, locking the relationship of front and rear body halves TOGETHER. Like I said in my first post above, you can't believe how much the top of windshield structure can move just by unlatching the convert top frame. DD
Pech33
Senior Member
Drake’s appears to be correct, anyone had an issue with his product, other than the car breaking in half before you get it installed? COOPMAN, you can’t insult me by giving me advice. I would prefer NOT to screw up my car and appreciate the knowledge that is on this forum and how willing everyone is to share so guys like me don’t “screw it up”.
Kube
Super Moderator
Okay, I'll weigh in here just one last time.
Pech, I suppose it's possible to replace the pan with the car on the frame. It is impossible to do it correctly and / or nicely.
Heck, I'd seen new pans welded on TOP of the old (rusted) pans. So, I suppose it comes down to what you desire as a finished product.
Coopman had mentioned about having the top in place. That's very good advice. I've restored enough convertibles to know just how important it is to fit as many pieces as possible prior to any welding.
The photos that Coopman had posted are of the most recent convertible I'd restored. To get to the point that is depicted in those photos, doors, hood, trunk lid and top bows were fitted perfectly.
The cloth top can easily pull the cowl assembly back 1/4" to 3/4" depending on the expertise of the installer. I plan for a 1/4".
From experience, I know approximately how much pull will be placed upon the A pillars and the subsequent door gap changes that will surely occur at the B pillars.
I'm not certain whether or not it shows clearly in the photos from the prior post, but those braces are adjustable. They are NOT "one size fits all" '40 convertible braces.
Carpenter and Drake sell the same pans. I prefer to avoid Drake any time I am able. The pans fit well and require only a small amount of modification. If this is your first "rodeo" I'd strongly suggest you buy the pan with the torque tube hump (tunnel) integral.
By the way, if I recall correctly, this is the same car that sports the rotten frame? If yes, then some comments and questions come to mind.
To boil those down to perhaps one... why would you bother replacing a floor pan on this particular car? It needs a frame, period.
I might hazard a suggestion at this point... sell this car and buy a better example.
Pech, I suppose it's possible to replace the pan with the car on the frame. It is impossible to do it correctly and / or nicely.
Heck, I'd seen new pans welded on TOP of the old (rusted) pans. So, I suppose it comes down to what you desire as a finished product.
Coopman had mentioned about having the top in place. That's very good advice. I've restored enough convertibles to know just how important it is to fit as many pieces as possible prior to any welding.
The photos that Coopman had posted are of the most recent convertible I'd restored. To get to the point that is depicted in those photos, doors, hood, trunk lid and top bows were fitted perfectly.
The cloth top can easily pull the cowl assembly back 1/4" to 3/4" depending on the expertise of the installer. I plan for a 1/4".
From experience, I know approximately how much pull will be placed upon the A pillars and the subsequent door gap changes that will surely occur at the B pillars.
I'm not certain whether or not it shows clearly in the photos from the prior post, but those braces are adjustable. They are NOT "one size fits all" '40 convertible braces.
Carpenter and Drake sell the same pans. I prefer to avoid Drake any time I am able. The pans fit well and require only a small amount of modification. If this is your first "rodeo" I'd strongly suggest you buy the pan with the torque tube hump (tunnel) integral.
By the way, if I recall correctly, this is the same car that sports the rotten frame? If yes, then some comments and questions come to mind.
To boil those down to perhaps one... why would you bother replacing a floor pan on this particular car? It needs a frame, period.
I might hazard a suggestion at this point... sell this car and buy a better example.
Last edited:
flatmotor40
Well-known member
I know this brings up bad stuff but I put a Paul Bradley pan in my conv.I had to wait but that was some 10 yrs ago and he had the best pans.He is slow but fine quality.I braced and did it on a rotisserie