replacing steering balls

R

rusted

Member
I need to replace the steering balls as they are out of round. How hard of a job is it to cut the old ones off, drill the hole for the new ball and weld? Do I need a drill press to drill the hole? I can do a good job of welding so that part does not bother me. Any hints would be very helpful!
 
The risk of liability of cut and welded steering balls is risky to say the least. Is your grandchilds life worth it? For the cost and time involved - not counting the risk - buy new ones. They are not that expensive.
 
the method you describe has been proven not to be safe. The safest means is to have the old ball machined off, leaving a stud, onto which you press a steel ball, which is then tig'd to the top of the stud. This process is done on an exchange basis by A&L, who also offers its service through various A parts dealers, such as Brattons, Snyders and Berts, probably others as well. Ask you favorite dealer.. A&L has no website, but can be reached by calling them. I have attached their catalog which our club has posted in pdf form. Spindles are on page 7

http://www.scvcma.org/documents/bulletins/AandL-catalog-2012.pdf
 
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All 4 steering balls were worn a lot on my 1928, so I welded them up and filed them round again. It was very time consuming and the next time I will let A&L fix them. It will be money well spent.
 
The A&L method is considered the safest way to go. There have been a number of horror stories about the type of repair you suggest failing.

Tom Endy

My apologies to Tom W. my comment was directed to the person who originated the string.
 
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I got mine from A & L and have no regrets or worries about how my welding held up or the metal held up to the heat. I think that A & L press them on the stud.
 
Much like Tom, I just put all four (well, one at a time) in the lathe, TIG welded more material into the low spots and turned the it back into a round ball.I ordered replacement bass but decided I would rather have the unity of the single piece and not risk loss of steering.
Have the front end nice and tight..no slop. Just need to do the steering box to get rid of the 7 inches of play in the wheel and the heavy, heavy wheel. (Maybe next week)
 
OK! Its settled, I will go with the A&L rebuilt ones. I did not know the weld in ones were so unsafe! Better to be safe with the grandkids as this is their GO TO GET ICE CREAM car. Thank you all for the advice.
 
As was said, going A&L is the best way; you won't be sorry. During our club's recent tour of their facility, we had a chance to see how they repair the arms. Each arm is locked in a special jig and the old ball in machined off leaving a precise diameter post. They then heat up the replacement ball using a common plumbers propane torch until it is red hot. It is then placed (not pressed) on the post and allowed to cool. Once cool, it is so tight that it would have to be machined off to get back to a post. Then a weld pool is placed on top to finish off the repair.
 
I always build up the worn places with weld. Then I hand file the balls as round as possible, checking with calipers as I go. That way the part is still one piece as was intended.
 
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