Replacing Roller on 37-48 Steering Sector

NealinCA

NealinCA

Well-known member
Anyone done this job...using one of the new replacement roller kits? Any input would be appreciated...I just want to know what I'm in for before I order parts.

Also, same questions on replacing the worm on the steering shaft. Does the old one just press off and the new one press on?

Thanks,

Neal
 
Yes, the sector shaft is a press off and on... For the on, I did not want to press on the long shaft, so I took a piece of aluminum plate, on cement, and gear down drove the shaft into the gear using its own weight...
I don't like to use a roller bearing on a sector shaft, the bearing pretty much stays in one place, high loading (very small bearing contact) can cause wear... This is a place where the bushing is a better choice, load spreads over a large area, and little motion to wear... Karl
 
Thanks for the info on replacing the worm...that sounds pretty straight forward.

The roller I was referring to was the one that meshes with the worm. Specifically how do you remove the pin holding it in. Grind or mill one end off and press out? How about installing the new one?
 

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I think the older gemmer 2 boxes may have had machine peened ends to keep the pin from moving. The complete sector was relatively inexpensive and easy to find back in the day so most folks just replaced the whole thing. The common practice is to spot weld the pin into the sector shaft housing. In any case you have to grind the spot that is peened or spot welded to get the old pin out. The new pin will have to be spot welded after completion of installation of the roller parts. It only needs one good spot weld to hold it.

If someone has a better idea then offer it up.

Kerby
 
don't try to press the sector gear off the shaft, there is a key way, take a zizz wheel or similar narrow grinder disk and slowly cut a slot in the gear until it is almost thru-lay the gear on an anvil, wear safety googles and take a cold chisel and split in open a little and it will just fall off, use a bearing heater or a hot plate and warm up the gear, clean the shaft, clean the shaft--make sure there no burrs on it or the key way and heat up the gear and slide it on-hold in place until it cools
 
I was surprised to see the roller sold, if I had to do it I would look for an old production NOS name brand sector, at each end of the roller there are thrust washers ---I would hope the kit comes with new ones that have to be "fit" so there is no clearance ---any movement translates into play, I would think total clearance should be .0001-.00001, and the sector to sector housing bushings clearance honed to .0004 or so---as tight as you can get it and still move.
 
Great question as I'm going through a box rebuild right now myself. My issue that I'm having is that I think the steering shaft is too lose as it goes into the box. Should there not be a bushing or seal of some type that surrounds the steering shaft as it enters the box from the top?
Also, how smooth should the worm gear be? I've got a small rough spot on the gear. Does not look too bad to me but I also realize that once all assembled, it may cause rough or sloppy steering. I'd got better things to do with $200 for a new worm gear so could I not just take it to a machine shop and have build it up and then grind it down level?? Please advise and thank you.
 
I haven't got the new parts yet, but I did get things taken apart. I made up a fixture and driver to remove the worm in the hydraulic press. Takes quite a bit of pressure to break it loose, but then it slides right off.

I ground one end of the roller pin with a die grinder and that drove out easily with a hammer and punch. Now I just need to wait for the new parts to arrive and hopefully it goes back together just as easy. If not...I'll be back with more questions.

Thanks,

Neal
 
First time I pressed a replacement worm gear on a column, I hadn't thought about supporting it - BOING! The column just bent sideways in the middle :(

After straightening the column (and also for subsequent ones I've done), I slipped a length of heavy-wall box-section over the column to hold it straight. I think alanwoodieman is talking about the worm gear, and he makes a good point about warming the gear/cooling the shaft before re-assembly, but I think you'll still need a press. There are shallow splines on the worm gear, but one is deeper than the others so it should be aligned with the deeper groove in the shaft (column).
 
I am wondering if anyone has tried using the new steering worm gears and roller and pin kit or complete sector shaft with roller from Mac's or other vendor? Are they smooth turning? Any steering wheel play?
 
BILLF/TRF said:
I am wondering if anyone has tried using the new steering worm gears and roller and pin kit or complete sector shaft with roller from Mac's or other vendor?
Click to expand...

I ordered the new steering worm gear and roller and pin kit from Joblot (same parts that Mac's sells I think)...so I'll let you know how they work in a few days.

Neal
 
Neal, I did a 49 F1 box which is the same thing pretty much. I had a bear of a time getting the new worm pressed on, and afterward saw on the HAMB where some guys actually welded a temporary ring on their shafts to hold it while pressing on the worm gear. I had just used a brass hammer and a vise in my primitive cave.

On the roller I had to thin the side spacers/washers a bit for the new roller to fit in the old sector. Then I put a tack weld on each end of the pin to hold it in place. I tried peening the ends, but figured I might tweek it a bit, so a weld was easier.

Upon re-assembly the box is MUCH tighter than it was. Almost too tight. With hindsight I think I should have shaved a little more from the side spacers/washers so the roller turned with zero firmness.
 
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