Replacing Points goofed a little

J

JBohannon

Senior Member
As I was replacing points old style points and distributor I removed the small round thumbscrew like screw holding points on. I think I should have just snapped points off of the screw. Now I try to screw it back and it will not catch anything underneath. What do I do now. Thanks Joe B
 
Yes the points were not burned but the tab that rest on the cam was worn out. I had no gap. I do not mind pulling the distributor I just hate to lose my timing. I think I have it in good position.
 
Push the spark up. Pull the timing pin, reverse it and rotate until the pin drops in the notch. Very carefully note where the rotor button is pointing, and where the point cam is....here is a good place for a pic if you can.
NOW take it apart, fix the problem, and then carefully put it all back together, with everything the same as in the pic.
Good Luck!
 
I recently had difficulty attaching modern points to a Nu-Rex top plate. The new points wouldn't screw down flush onto the top plate without a wobble, and adjusting the point gap proved impossible. Has anyone else had this problem? Maybe only Nu-Rex points are compatible with a Nu-Rex top plate?
 
Mad Mac said:
I recently had difficulty attaching modern points to a Nu-Rex top plate. The new points wouldn't screw down flush onto the top plate without a wobble, and adjusting the point gap proved impossible. Has anyone else had this problem? Maybe only Nu-Rex points are compatible with a Nu-Rex top plate?
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I use NAPA points, the manufacturer should not matter. The plate should have a hole where the pivot end of the points sits in. Check to make sure you have this correct.
Good Luck.
 
What I mean by thumbscrew is that it is not hex head it has serrated edges only. What I should have done is just unhook it from this screw not unscrew. Can I remove top plate without removing distributor ?
 
I now have the points off what does it take to remove the top plate and inspect the wire underneath. I think I must pull cam do I have to pull distributor?
 
Are you talking about the threaded stud on the left side of the picture?

Bob
 

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You have to take the point cam screw loose to get the top plate out. Rotate it until the tabs line up with the notches and it will pop up from the spring.
You dont have to take the distributor out, but unless its stuck you might find it easier to do that.
 
Rex_A_Lott said:
You have to take the point cam screw loose to get the top plate out. Rotate it until the tabs line up with the notches and it will pop up from the spring.
You dont have to take the distributor out, but unless its stuck you might find it easier to do that.
Click to expand...

You also need to take the spark adjustment rod off.
 
Bob C said:
Are you talking about the threaded stud on the left side of the picture?

Bob
Click to expand...
Yea, Bob, I think that's what he's talking about. It's secured by a nut under the upper plate & that nut also holds the pig tail wire terminal. I've even seen guys squeeze that spring loop with needle nose pliers, so they can slip it off the post, without dismantling the distributor, KINDA' Mickey Mouse way, though!
ALSO, check for wobbly/loose point arm pivot post. That can cause points NOT to align properly & also causes FAST/UNEVEN rubbing block wear. It can be tightened, where it's staked over, UNDER the upper plate. Just a TAP-TAP-TAP, with a small hammer & a fairly BLUNT center punch & it's tight again. That post was LOOSE on both of my distributors!! It's EASILY overlooked:eek: While the upper plate is out, check out the curved slot & screw, where you can move the fixed point contact block, for proper point alignment. Mitch //pa, once described that feature.
ALSO, referring to another post about poorly made distributor cams, UNEVEN point gaps can be spotted by EYE, fairly well. With the distributor in hand, stare at the point gap, at all 4 opening positions & you can see if the gap varies. It's called a "poor mans' dial indicator":D
Some folks get FREAKED out at the thought of rippin' a distributor apart. They're not complicated, just an OLD DESIGN, if you just take your time & lay out the parts in order & take pics, if you have a new do-fangled phone & KNOW how to use it:D Everyone should have an old defunct distributor to practice on. We rarely have to take one apart & sorta' forget whichaway the pieces go.:confused: Same goes for having an OLD useless CARBUNATOR to fiddle with.:D Git a lots of FREE catalogs, most have GOOD exploded pics of how stuff goes;)
Bill W.
 
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JBohannon said:
Yes Bob it is that screw. I should not have taken it off to just replace points should I .
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Yes you do need to take it out to replace the points. But like mentioned there is a nut under the top plate that holds this screw in and the points in place. Yes you now would need to take the top plate out to find the nut. Use the instructions above on how to get the top plate out. You will need to reset you timing so use the idea above on how to do that. Look up in one of the vendors parts catalogs on how this thing is made so you understand what you are doing or get someone local that can help you out.
 
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