Replacing Horn Rod???

I

IndyA

Member
I've noticed a small amount of play (like a rocking motion) in my '29 coupe steering wheel... I don't think this a problem with the steering gear but may mean the hex nut anchoring the steering wheel to the shaft (this is 1930 2-tooth system with the oil retainer tube installed) might be slightly loose.

So, I'd like to unclip the horn rod at the base ... raise it back away from the dashboard and see if I can get a wrench of some sort on the hex hut anchoring the steering shaft to the wheel.

My question is it easy to guide the horn rod back thru the end plate (with oil tube) or do you just have to keep poking around until "the blind hog finds the acorn" ???

Thanks for your help
 
You'll have to remove the light switch bulb from the bottom of the column. This is not daunting. Remove the bail and the bulb drops "down."

There is a horseshoe shaped "snap-clip" (not really) at the bottom which holds the light switch spider (two pronged thingy) to the bottom of the light switch rod. This spider has a spring under it (pushing down) and you can be sure the spring will launch everything out of your restraining hand to a position well out of easy reach when you remove the clip. A piece of thin wood which is inserted between the rim of the steering wheel and the horn button help to hold the light switch rod "down" and help one's hand to move the spider "up" for clip removal.

With the clip and spider removed, you can then pull the light switch rod "up" and away from the steering wheel. You don't have to pull up much and less is better since there are "anti-rattlers" (pieces of felt) which keep the light switch rod from rattling around inside the hollow steering wheel shaft and which you don't want to disturb.

You can then use a wrench and tighten. Don't over-tighten as you may cause the thread to break making a bigger mess.

In fact, your symptoms suggest this has already happened - and could be common on an 80 year old machine where drivers "tug" on the steering wheel getting in and out. You may find the nut and the bit of thread its attached to still attached to each other - but non-tighten-able - as in just spins. Be prepared for a possible worst.

Not suggesting any abnormal use on your part. A random occurrence one learns to expect given the commonality of use.

Joe K
 
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Joe K said:
You'll have to remove the light switch bulb from the bottom of the column. This is not daunting. Remove the bail and the bulb drops "down."

There is a horseshoe shaped "snap-clip" (not really) at the bottom which holds the light switch spider (two pronged thingy) to the bottom of the light switch rod. This spider has a spring under it (pushing down) and you can be sure the spring will launch everything out of your restraining hand to a position well out of easy reach when you remove the clip. A piece of thin wood which is inserted between the rim of the steering wheel and the horn button help to hold the light switch rod "down" and help one's hand to move the spider "up" for clip removal.

With the clip and spider removed, you can then pull the light switch rod "up" and away from the steering wheel. You don't have to pull up much and less is better since there are "anti-rattlers" (pieces of felt) which keep the light switch rod from rattling around inside the hollow steering wheel shaft and which you don't want to disturb.

You can then use a wrench and tighten. Don't over-tighten as you may cause the thread to break making a bigger mess.

In fact, your symptoms suggest this has already happened - and could be common on an 80 year old machine where drivers "tug" on the steering wheel getting in and out. You may find the nut and the bit of thread its attached to still attached to each other - but non-tighten-able - as in just spins. Be prepared for a possible worst.

Not suggesting any abnormal use on your part. A random occurrence one learns to expect given the commonality of use.

Joe K
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Thanks for posting this info, had not heard of this before. I know about the gas tank steering column issue, and have moved the support to the dash, but this is new to me. Am really going to have to concentrate not "tugging" on the wheel getting in and out.
 
30 Closed Cab PU said:
Thanks for posting this info, had not heard of this before. I know about the gas tank steering column issue, and have moved the support to the dash, but this is new to me. Am really going to have to concentrate not "tugging" on the wheel getting in and out.
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More commonly the issue is the reverse - the wheel can't be removed for love nor money - and a "wheel puller" is required to get it off the taper.

The fact that the wheel is "loose" does not bode well in my book.

Perhaps its just "loose?" And a quick tighten will solve it?

One hopes.

Oh - most tend to gain weight as they get older. So your physical dimension increases and accessibility decreases - along with a corresponding increase in forces required to insert B into "A?"

One hopes not.

Joe K
 
The anti rattlers are on the throttle and advance rods, removing the horn rod shouldn't affect them.
 
There should be one on the horn rod at the top.


Bob
 

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And you may find a spiral of "friction tape" like material about half way down.

Joe K
 
Friends: I appreciate all the erudite responses on steering wheels etc.; but no one has given an answer to my question: " Will the horn rod find its way in to the tube of the end plate when I push the steering wheel back to its seat".... Thanks... IndyA
 
It's been a long time since I did this, and I might be disremembering the whole process, but I don't recall it being a problem. Can't the tube be installed after the horn rod is already in place and before the spider is attached? You'd have to do a lot of poking to find it the other way.
 
Bill..... Thanks for your thoughts.... I'm doing this with the gear in the car... if I remove the plate (and tube)... all the oil in the gear box will drain out as well.... uughhhh
 
IndyA said:
Friends: I appreciate all the erudite responses on steering wheels etc.; but no one has given an answer to my question: " Will the horn rod find its way in to the tube of the end plate when I push the steering wheel back to its seat".... Thanks... IndyA
Click to expand...
If you pull the horn switch rod up LESS than the length of the tube, (about 6") it can probably be done without mess. I mean how much space to do need to put a wrench underneath the escutcheon?

Joe K
 
It doesn't sound like a loose nut to me, but it is worth trying doing what you are doing.

If the nut was loose, you would probably see some play when you try to move the wheel in and out. Also, with the wheel in the keyway, I don't see how you would get back and forth movement of the wheel even with a loose nut.

All steering adjustments can be made with the gear in the car, so if tightening the nut doesn't help, you can go there.
 
I was able to slide rod back down (gently so you don't crack the insulating ring under the soldered end) to the tube, then rotate it till it drops in.
 
IndyA said:
Bill..... Thanks for your thoughts.... I'm doing this with the gear in the car... if I remove the plate (and tube)... all the oil in the gear box will drain out as well.... uughhhh
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It shouldn't all come out, but cleaning up that mess might seem the better option after trying to find the tube, poking at it blindly with the horn rod. I guess you choose your poison! Joe K in post 11 probably has the best idea.
 
IndyA said:
Friends: I appreciate all the erudite responses on steering wheels etc.; but no one has given an answer to my question: " Will the horn rod find its way in to the tube of the end plate when I push the steering wheel back to its seat".... Thanks... IndyA
Click to expand...



Yes


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
IndyA said:
Friends: I appreciate all the erudite responses on steering wheels etc.; but no one has given an answer to my question: " Will the horn rod find its way in to the tube of the end plate when I push the steering wheel back to its seat".... Thanks... IndyA
Click to expand...


As sideline states above.... there should be no issue. You should not have a problem no matter how much you choose to pull-up the Horn rod. I have done many and do this routinely if the steering wheel is loose and never have had an issue.
Worst case is the tube is removed but I think you will not have that problem.

Larry shepard
 
I just had mine in and out a half dozen times, fitting the rod to the bushing and securing the loose upper cap to the rod. No issues at all with sliding the rod back through the oil tube through the steering gear
 
Thank you all for the Sage directions.... I was able to tighten the 7/8th" hex nut on the steering shaft & after a lot of cussing and broken fingernails... I got the e clip back on the bulb end.... Success, Thanks to you guys.... Indy A
 
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