Replacing head gasket

FortRockRider

FortRockRider

Junior Member
I'm getting coolant leaking out at the head gasket so I'm planning to replace the head gasket. First question is that I assume since it doesn't have a letter on top that it is a standard head and uses A605M gasket. Once the head is off and I need to move piston 1 to TDC, do I need the timing wrench or can I use the manual starter crank so I don't have to buy an expensive wrench.
Thanks
 

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Re: is it the standard head: appears likely from what is visible in your photo, but you won't know for sure until you get it off and can look at the shape of the combustion chamber. If it's leaking consider taking it to a machine shop for decking smooth before you reinstall.

Re: moving to TDC: if you don't have a tool box installed between the frame members on the front, you may be able to use a ratchet, extension inserted through the crank hole, and a 1-3/8" socket. (Note: most ratchet nuts are 1-3/8" but there are some reports of different sizes, like 1-5/16".) It will be a lot easier to move the crankshaft around after the head is off, you won't be fighting compression.

Re: what gasket - I don't recognize that part number, but I'm not going to touch that with an 11-foot pole. There is another thread already going, as Master Cylinder noted.
 
Why do you need to bring #1 cylinder to TDC? If you are thinking you will have to do that to retime the distributor - you don't. So long as you do not disturb the gear that engages the cam shaft and drives the oil pump and distrinbutor, your timing will not change when you drop the distributor back into the head after you do your job. It can only go back in place one way and that is the same as it came apart.
 
Have you retorqued the head nuts?

Every time a head is leaking this is the first thing to try before replacing.

After replacing a Model A head it must be retorqued several times shortly after replacing it.

This engine is not a 1979 SBC engine where you torque it once and forget it!
 
Re-torquing sounds like a good first step to see if that will fix it. I was following the Paul Shin video and thought that since I was taking the distributer off that I would need to retime. Thanks for all the responses.
 
Nothing wrong with starting out with #1 at TDC using the timing pin ! What if the distributor shaft tangs are so worn that it could go back together 180* out , not even sure that could happen at least a peace of mind !
 
Note: most ratchet nuts are 1-3/8" but there are some reports of different sizes, like 1-5/16"[/QUOTE]

FWIW: The ratchet nut on my '31 is 1-1/4"
 
If you would have two distributors and assuming the one you have in it now is timed correctly you can remove it and set it aside.
Install the second distributor, time it to the engine and drive it for a thousand miles. After that you can remove it and reinstall the first one and it will still be in time.
 
It's easy to set TDC when the head is off. You aren't fighting the compression and you should be able to just grab the crank pulley to rotate it by hand. Or just put it in gear and push the car to get it done.
 
Just use the crank to get it to the top before pulling the head. That said....my timing gear 'dent' is not exactly correct. I find pulling plug #1 and using a light to get visual of TDC...which is a tiny bit past where the pin indents makes a world of difference in my timing. Also..with older rebuilds some tended to use excessive silicon. ALL of that needs to come off and the surfaces thoroughly cleaned with a solvent and non-metalic scrapper. If you are not looking at upgrading to a higher compression ratio, you might want to consider backing all of the nuts off and re-torquing using the prescribed pattern before pulling the head.
 
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