replacing fuel line.

FrankWest

Well-known member
My 1933 model B has a strange curved fuel line,,,see attached photo.
I would like to repair/replace this line to have the proper fuel line run and not this strange curve. Should I just splice a new portion of line or replace the entire fuel line. I know a splice with compression fitting can be very simple. Replacing the entire line to the gas tank is another thing. What is the best way to go.
 

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clamp

I assume originally there was NO clamp??
The clamp looks old..like it has been there for 80 years??
 
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1933 Fords are not my specialty, but it looks like that metal fuel line is too long and was looped back and clamped to make it fit. Why not remove the clamp, straighten the metal fuel line so it fits inside and under the frame rail and then curves at the end so that a shorter flexible fuel line can run 90 degrees to the pump?
 
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I agree with 19Fordy. It would appear that the fuel has been replaced and that it is way too long. The line should be tucked up against the inner bottom of the frame rail and clamped about 6-8" from the end to the bottom of the frame rail. The last 6-8" of the line bent slightly (only slightly) upward with the end fitting ending up rearward of the fuel pump. An original 4-cylinder flex line is shown on the left side of the photo below. The other photo shows how the flex line should be oriented when installed with the original length fuel line from the tank.
 

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When I bought the car I was told that it had a new fuel tank..Which I have no reason to doubt..but the fuel line looks really old and I also see the tiny line that is for the fuel gauge..which is, not working. and I really have no plans to get it working.
 
The suggestions above are all good. To answer your question (I presume you have inspected the remaining line) There is no problem using a compression fitting to avoid the task of total replacement.

I was taken away from the computer and began the reply before your above post #8. So it's really up to you.
 
If you want to restore the appearance and replace the old flex line it can be done quite simply:
1. Install and orient the new flex line.
2 . Re-contour and position the hardline and cut it to length.
3. Replace the "olive" in the fitting and re-torque the two lines.
Napa has the olives. DavidG provided the info for routing the lines. Cut the line with a hacksaw, not a tubing cutter, so you don't work harden the area where the olive will crimp the line, clean and deburr it too. You will want to make sure the fuel line is above the tank level before you start or it will be even shortly thereafter...
 
Does the line have to be clamped down like in my car? Is that an added feature?

I assume originally there was NO clamp??
The clamp looks old..like it has been there for 80 years??
Last edited by FrankWest; Today at 09:19 AM.
 
I'd start over. Lots of good advice above. The fuel Line looks like hardware store copper. Needs to be copper coated steel, Also find a picture of what the original clamping arraignment was and duplicate that. Lastly the soft line (necessary) from the steel line terminus to the FP needs to be the right length.
 
My 1933 model B has a strange curved fuel line,,,see attached photo.
I would like to repair/replace this line to have the proper fuel line run and not this strange curve. Should I just splice a new portion of line or replace the entire fuel line. I know a splice with compression fitting can be very simple. Replacing the entire line to the gas tank is another thing. What is the best way to go.
Frank, Didn't you ask this question last June??

http://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=170999

Looks like you have not changed your flex line since. John
 
That is because, I have not yet found a picture of what the original should look like or even if it had a clamp as mine does. Now I find that my line may be solid copper and not copper plated steel. Because My car is now running..I don't want to take the fuel line out YET until I am ready to do the job right. I am just learning..What is a flex line? Is that what fuel lines from the tank called? Is that copper coated steel..Is there only one standard size?
 
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I'd start over. Lots of good advice above. The fuel Line looks like hardware store copper. Needs to be copper coated steel, Also find a picture of what the original clamping arraignment was and duplicate that. Lastly the soft line (necessary) from the steel line terminus to the FP needs to be the right length.

Mac's sell an all copper fuel line? Should it be copper plated steel??

They sell a steel copper coated Siamese twin line for the fuel gauge too.
My car had has a fuel line and a separate fuel gauge line. Did the model b's standard use two separate lines rather than the Siamese lines? Now I remember why I kept putting off this fuel line replacement..I never found out what they originally were using on the 1933 model B.
I think the two separate lines are a hell of a lot cheaper than the Siamese line. Maybe they used the two separate lines on the model B or standard models.
 

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I wasn't after original look, and mine isn't a '33, but I made my own using -06AN Aeroquip steel braided hose and fittings.
 
Mike McKennett of Reproductions and Restorations, Portland, OR makes the correct '33 4-cylinder fuel air line Siamesed as original from Bundy (copper-plated wrapped steel tubing) complete with the correct fittings. The standard and deluxe models used the same lines and all of the four-cylinder lines were clamped to the bottom rail of the frame. Please re-read post number seven.

You will take your life in your hands by using a copper (only) fuel line. There was a good reason why Ford specified the more expensive copper/steel tubing. (You say you want the car to say original, but you seem to be wavering on that idea.)
 
Mike McKennett of Reproductions and Restorations, Portland, OR makes the correct '33 4-cylinder fuel air line Siamesed as original from Bundy (copper-plated wrapped steel tubing) complete with the correct fittings. The standard and deluxe models used the same lines and all of the four-cylinder lines were clamped to the bottom rail of the frame. Please re-read post number seven.

You will take your life in your hands by using a copper (only) fuel line. There was a good reason why Ford specified the more expensive copper/steel tubing. (You say you want the car to say original, but you seem to be wavering on that idea.)

how so? i always strove to make it original. I had this made for me 8 months ago by a guy in PA. cost 45$. I just sent a request to Mckennett for the Siamese line.
 

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Frank,

If interested I have several NOS 32-34 flexible fuel lines. I have been running
a NOS original one on my 32 B for years without any leaks or problems. Let me
know if you're interested in purchasing one for your 33.

Peter
 
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