replacing carb line ferrule

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CLD1950

New member
I would like to replace the compression ferrule on the stainless steel gas line at the carb end. The nut slides freely on the gas line but the ferrule is tight. I would like to remove it and replace it with a new ferrule. How is this done without possibly damaging the gas line. I am working on a 1931 Model A Towncar. Thanks for suggestions.

Clint
 
CLD1950 said:
I would like to replace the compression ferrule on the stainless steel gas line at the carb end. The nut slides freely on the gas line but the ferrule is tight. I would like to remove it and replace it with a new ferrule. How is this done without possibly damaging the gas line. I am working on a 1931 Model A Towncar. Thanks for suggestions.

Clint
Click to expand...
If the brass ferrule does not slide on the gas line then likely it has deformed enough to be swedged on. In this case you will likely see a slight swelling of the downstream end of the gas line, after the ferrule. Likely the same thing at the upper fitting (sediment bowl).

There is no reliable way to remove the ferrule to replace it. Even if you were to cut it off, the enlarged end would prevent you from putting a new one on.

You could try carefully cutting (with a tubing cutter) the stainless line upstream of the ferrule, then beginning again. However, this destroys the proportions of the gas line and will result in a distorted line.

Best to get a new gas line and new ferrules (upper and lower).
 
Just cut the fuel line right behind the ferrule(s) with a sharp hacksaw blade. You will only lose a 1/4" of the fuel line at each end. You can easily re-bend the fuel line if necessary to take up this miniscule loss and the line's contour will still look o.k.
After cutting off the ferrule end(s) of the fuel line, run a drill bit up each end to smooth out any burrs left inside from cutting. Finish by hand filing the edge(s) of the fuel line to remove any rough remains until you can slide the new ferrule onto the fuel line. Ensure that the ends of the fuel line are level across their faces, no pointed edges. If jagged, hand file them level. Once the ferrule fits, remove it and slide the nut on the fuel line, followed by the ferrule.
If your car has the steel sediment bowl on the firewall, set both ferrules there instead of at the carb. This is especially important if your car has a pot metal Tillotson carb, whose inlet threads are easy to strip when setting the ferrule. If you have a Zenith carb, you could set the ferrule there, but it's much easier to start the nut into the sediment bowl than in the carb. Afterwards, ensure that only 1/4" or so of the fuel line extends past the ferrule. Any longer at the carb end and a long fuel line will poke into the end filter and restrict fuel flow. Tighten the sediment bowl nut and the carb nut alternately until they won't turn any more. This ensures the nuts will not cross-thread.
I have saved many fuel lines following this simple procedure, which only costs the price of one or two ferrules.
Marshall
 
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By the way, I assure you that you are NOT working on a Town CAR. Rather, in all likelihood you have a Town Sedan. BIG difference!!! The Town Car is a chauffeur-driven vehicle, whose body is different from a Town Sedan. I don't think Town Cars were even made in 1931, although I seem to recall in an ancient "Restorer" issue that there might have been one, possibly two. If you in fact have a Town Car, you have a might rare Model A.
I see that you have only this lone posting, so I assume you are new to the Model A hobby and have not quite learned all the many, many body styles Ford produced. In order to save yourself grief from know-it-all sidewalk commandos, apply the correct terminology when identifying your body style: 1931 Town Sedan - unless I am otherwise proven wrong.
Marshall
 
This slide should help you.
 

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Good luck finding a place that sells ferrules. Hardware store are not really hardware store any more.
 
They come in a packet of two at my local hardware store. It helps if you take the fuel line with you so that the clueless salesclerk can match diameters.
Marshall
 
Not to flog a dead horse here...But this Floyd Clymer booklet shows factory photos of all Model A body styles produced from 1928-1931. Not all information in the captions is correct, but hey! This booklet appeared in 1960 before people REALLY began researching the Model A. Old Floyd missed the mark in a bunch of captions, but the factory photos alone are worth the price. There are several of these booklets available on eBay right now.
If anyone here wants to become familiar with the many Model A body styles and Ford nomenclature for them, this is the best book for the buck. I still drool over some of the photos showing rare and highly desirable Model A's - and wonder why EVERYBODY didn't buy them back then!
Marshall
 

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Thanks to all for the advice. I think I will purchase a new line with the ferrules but try Marshall's suggestion on the old one.

Regards,
Clint
 
CLD1950 said:
Thanks to all for the advice. I think I will purchase a new line with the ferrules but try Marshall's suggestion on the old one.

Regards,
Clint
Click to expand...

If all that is needed is replacing the Ferule, a file to score the Ferule, and then a small hacksaw to remove most of the remaining thickness of the brass. Then reuse the file for the final bit so as to almost break thru the brass. Heat the Ferule with a soft flame to only heat the Ferule brass and then dunk in cold water to anneal the brass. At that point to can use a screwdriver tip inserted into the slot that is created by the hacksaw and then give the screwdriver a twist. Generally they pop off of the steel line.
 
BRENT in 10-uh-C, I thought about part of that, notching the ferrule with a saw and then using a flat-head screwdriver in the notch to crack the ferrule off. The annealing is the crucial step I suspect.

Thanks
Clint
 
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