replacing 35 ignition switch

kevinshea

kevinshea

Senior Member
Does anyone have instructions for replacing the ignition switch and where to find a replacement.. my key broke in place and now I have an "always on" switch. The ON-OFF switch works fine, its just the key and keyway.

Should have said "lock cylinder"

I recall that replacing this switch is a PITA... any help appreciated.
 
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Have you tried to turn the lock cylinder off and fish out the stub of the key. A couple sharp picks and a little fiddling can many times get them out if they were just twisted off. Then use it as pattern to have new one cut.

Might also have a good locksmith take a peek at it if you can't get it out.

If not; there is a pin going up from the bottom that keeps the lock cylinder in place.

Center punch, drill and tap for a machine screw, and use small socket with a longer screw with a flat washer and nut thru it to pull the pin out.

If you can't make that work, you can drill the pin out; but quit when you see brass.

Once the cylinder is out; you may want to send it to 32Phil; he can repair it. A good stock cylinder is better than a repop (they are not the same as a '35 cyl).

I usually end up tapping the pin hole for a set screw as a retainer when reinstalling the cylinder.
 
Rich_B. thank you... that helps a lot... I was also able to find "1935-1936 Ford Ignition Lock AssemblY" by Don Rogers .. from 2017 that provides a few good images and also suggests drilling out the (serrated - tapered) pin.. and drill size 3/8" .. I assume that one should either replace the pin, or better, tap the hole and insert a threaded item to "fix" the cylinder in place.

What is so odd, is that during my rebuild, Flatheadfan suggested something similar but I did not do what he said.. paying for it now!
 
kevinshea said:
Rich_B. thank you... that helps a lot... I was also able to find "1935-1936 Ford Ignition Lock AssemblY" by Don Rogers .. from 2017 that provides a few good images and also suggests drilling out the (serrated - tapered) pin.. and drill size 3/8" .. I assume that one should either replace the pin, or better, tap the hole and insert a threaded item to "fix" the cylinder in place.

What is so odd, is that during my rebuild, Flatheadfan suggested something similar but I did not do what he said.. paying for it now!
Click to expand...

I'd suggest you drill and tap that pin to a #10 - 32. Then, install a machine screw over a washer and nut and pull the pin out. Then, the lock cylinder will readily come out. Then drill and tap the hole that pin was in for 5/16 fine thread and install a pointed set screw.
 
Get the broken key removed from the cylinder. Some column drops have room to put a very small screwdriver through the rear under the electrical switch and push the key out through the front. The key has to be in the OFF position. Or glue a washer onto the end of the broken key to extract.
 
I have gotten broken keys out after removing the cylinder. Then I put some duct tape on a 5/8 socket with the tape removed from the hole in the center. Put the cylinder over the tape on the socket and rap it hard on the work bench. The key usually comes out far enough that you can put a needle nose pliers on it to remove the rest of the way. Sometimes the key stub will come all the way out. You can take it to a locksmith if they have the proper blanks or send the stub and cylinder to 32Phil for a guaranteed fit. Get 3 while you're at it! LOL
 
Picture of using a socket head setscrew to replace the drive pin.
 

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Has anyone ever thought about using a shop vac to get the key out? Some of those have a lot of suck and have gotten things out from under my refrigerator and stove.
Tape the end of the vacuum hose to make a smaller opening to pull.
 
nelsb01 said:
Has anyone ever thought about using a shop vac to get the key out? Some of those have a lot of suck and have gotten things out from under my refrigerator and stove.
Tape the end of the vacuum hose to make a smaller opening to pull.
Click to expand...

Don't think there would be any airflow to "move" the key stub as the lock cylinder is close ended.
 
I talked to 32Phil about it and given the key is broken in the on position, he says that it is impossible to remove.. he even mentioned guys who try to and all they do it to mess up the outer metal as well as the lock cylinder.. his comment.. Drill the security bolt out... he also mentioned that the hole length is 3/16" so, drill, look, drill, look until you see brass.
 
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