replacement wheel cylinder question

kevinshea

Senior Member
I have a 35 wagon with 40 spindles and brakes... I am preparing to replace the Lockheeds with Bendix from a 56 F100.. Have all the pieces that I need. I purchased new 56 wheel cylinders from Webco and found them to be slightly different from the rusted set of 56 cylinders that I bought...

Everything looks good but the boot is shaped differently than the originals...the boot is more rounded and the dimple is much smaller diameter and extends out more. The plungers that I have don't set in like I think they should and would definitely wobble if I just went ahead. The same plungers are used from 1948 to the 70's. I checked to make sure I purchased correctly, and I seems that I did. I've gone through a bunch of others suppliers and see that same thing.

My plan is to return the new ones and try to find NOS that are the same profile. At least that is my current thinking.. Am I seeing it wrong?
 

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You need to loosen bleeder screw and push piston back in front both sides at the same time. The spring inside will try/ will push them back out again. There are tools to hold them in during assembly that sure help. The outer boot you are concerned about will then look like the old original
 
Kiwi…. Done! Thanks…. There was an obvious “pop” when the plungers got “set” in the boot… I will look for that tool, or ask around.
 
There are a few different tools for this from days gone by.
Here are a set of KRW tools I have. Not for sale.
 

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I have a 35 wagon with 40 spindles and brakes... I am preparing to replace the Lockheeds with Bendix from a 56 F100.. Have all the pieces that I need. I purchased new 56 wheel cylinders from Webco and found them to be slightly different from the rusted set of 56 cylinders that I bought...

Everything looks good but the boot is shaped differently than the originals...the boot is more rounded and the dimple is much smaller diameter and extends out more. The plungers that I have don't set in like I think they should and would definitely wobble if I just went ahead. The same plungers are used from 1948 to the 70's. I checked to make sure I purchased correctly, and I seems that I did. I've gone through a bunch of others suppliers and see that same thing.

My plan is to return the new ones and try to find NOS that are the same profile. At least that is my current thinking.. Am I seeing it wrong?
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I have a 35 wagon with 40 spindles and brakes... I am preparing to replace the Lockheeds with Bendix from a 56 F100.. Have all the pieces that I need. I purchased new 56 wheel cylinders from Webco and found them to be slightly different from the rusted set of 56 cylinders that I bought...

Everything looks good but the boot is shaped differently than the originals...the boot is more rounded and the dimple is much smaller diameter and extends out more. The plungers that I have don't set in like I think they should and would definitely wobble if I just went ahead. The same plungers are used from 1948 to the 70's. I checked to make sure I purchased correctly, and I seems that I did. I've gone through a bunch of others suppliers and see that same thing.

My plan is to return the new ones and try to find NOS that are the same profile. At least that is my current thinking.. Am I seeing it wrong?

SORRY ON MY PHONE THE ONE NUMBER LOOKED LIKE 101-1688; SO I LOOKED UP THE WRONG NUMBER.






Just push the pins into the boot and against the piston; the pistons will compress when assembling the shoes.
 
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Rich... given that the Wagon is the heaviest of the 35s, will the oversize make a difference? actually, will it help a bit?
 
A larger diameter wheel cylinder will:

- Give quicker action due to larger volume displaced
- harder pedal
- Lower peak braking pressure for the same F (leg/foot force on pedal) since the area is larger.

Pressure = Force / Area
P = F/A

1/16" will probably be unnoticeable with a 12% difference in the areas, 0.887 and 0.994 respectively.
 
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Going by the number on the box; they sold you the wrong wheel cylinders.

Those have 1-1/8" bore. F-100 wheel cylinders have 1-1/16" bore.

Raybestos WC9090 & WC9091 or their equivalent are the ones you want.

Just push the pins into the boot and against the piston; the pistons will compress when assembling the shoes.


There web site show the 101-1697 is 1.063 bore.
 

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