Replacement Radiator

I have been wondering the same thing. There are many aluminum radiators available on eBay for around $100 on up. There are 2 row, 3 row, and 4 row versions available. The more rows, the higher the price. In any case, they are all considerably less than a brass equivalent. Given the prevalence and success of aluminum radiators on current vehicles, I would have to assume that a properly constructed unit would be completely satisfactory for our cars, making a brass radiator an expensive luxury, used only by those wanting correctness in their vehicles.

By "properly constructed", I mean radiators that are brazed together, not glued. Where I become confused is by the "row count". One would think that the more rows, the better, but I guess this is not exactly true. I had the original radiator in my'51 re-cored shortly after I got it in 1987. It is running a little hot (not overheating) lately, and I am considering having it dome again, but with the prices they are getting these days, maybe an aluminum replacement would be cheaper, and maybe even better.

So I guess that I am waiting for input from someone who has already done it. If I do replace mine, I'd probably go with a two row because of the cost, and the fact I live north of Brainerd, MN where it doesn't get too hot. Anybody out there done it? From the number advertised, I have to believe there are a bunch.
 
tubman said:
I have been wondering the same thing. There are many aluminum radiators available on eBay for around $100 on up. There are 2 row, 3 row, and 4 row versions available. The more rows, the higher the price. In any case, they are all considerably less than a brass equivalent. Given the prevalence and success of aluminum radiators on current vehicles, I would have to assume that a properly constructed unit would be completely satisfactory for our cars, making a brass radiator an expensive luxury, used only by those wanting correctness in their vehicles.

By "properly constructed", I mean radiators that are brazed together, not glued. Where I become confused is by the "row count". One would think that the more rows, the better, but I guess this is not exactly true. I had the original radiator in my'51 re-cored shortly after I got it in 1987. It is running a little hot (not overheating) lately, and I am considering having it dome again, but with the prices they are getting these days, maybe an aluminum replacement would be cheaper, and maybe even better.

So I guess that I am waiting for input from someone who has already done it. If I do replace mine, I'd probably go with a two row because of the cost, and the fact I live north of Brainerd, MN where it doesn't get too hot. Anybody out there done it? From the number advertised, I have to believe there are a bunch.
Click to expand...

i didn't have one put in my '41 but i did have an e-bay aluminum job put in my '67 jag. i've had no overheating problems out here in the central california heat...been over 100F several times already starting in May. so it's been put the test for a couple years now.

i will caution that most of them overestimate the extent to which they fit. as they pretty much make a few with the intent to fit as many vehicles as possible. sometimes a bit of tweaking may be necessary usually involving mounting issues. ...just a heads up. :)
 
Last edited:
I bought a polished aluminum radiator from championradiators.com for my '52 F-1 and found it to be of great quality and very efficient. for many years.
Overheating is not just caused by a radiation inefficiency. Engine timing and tuning is a big factor. Check out their web site. Chap
 

Attachments

  • PICT0014.jpg
    PICT0014.jpg
    77.2 KB · Views: 310
in addition to the number of rows in a radiator, be aware that the width of the tube is important. The fins attach to the sides of the tube and take heat away from the coolant. The more side space there is to attach the fin, the better the cooling. I decided early on (1995) to use an aluminum radiator with two rows of tubes each 1 1/4". When that radiator began to seep, I replaced it with one that had two rows of 1" tubes. I never experienced heating problems with either one. Also, multi-row radiators usually have the rows staggered. More rows resricts air flow to an extent.
 
chap52 said:
I bought a polished aluminum radiator from championradiators.com for my '52 F-1 and found it to be of great quality and very efficient. for many years.
Overheating is not just caused by a radiation inefficiency. Engine timing and tuning is a big factor. Check out their web site. Chap
Click to expand...
587115
 
The aluminum radiators look out of place in my opinion. I think you made the right choice with the brass/copper.


If I purchased a car with an aluminum radiator, the first thing I'd do is remove it. If I saw an aluminum radiator however, it would make me question what else is wrong with the car and it could be a deal breaker.
 
Tim,

Sorry - just saw this. Are your upper and lower tanks in good shape? I have used two shops in the area for new cores and have been very satisfied with the results. They are not too far away and know what we need for authenticity.

Ken
 
My 40 came with a Champion aluminum radiator so I just painted it black so it looks more original.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2970.jpg
    IMG_2970.jpg
    43.6 KB · Views: 205
I remember when the aluminum was totally uncool, figuratively. I just bought about my 4th one, this one for a Ford tractor. They all seemed dirt cheap, and they've each satisfied me completely. Old leaky originals are all stored out in the pile.
 
Somewhere on the internet there is published test results comparing performance betweeen Aluminum vs. Brass/copper radiators. Their finding was that Aluminum is only very slightly better in giving off heat. Personally, I choose Brass/copper because its relatively easy to repair. Aluninum is not easy to fix. My local Radiator shop does not work on them. Also, due to the fact that Aluminum expanes more when heated than Brass/copper, its assembly and connections are under greater stress which could contribute to problems. Yes Brass/copper has traditionally been more expensive but with the new Tariffs on imported Aluminum that may have changed.
 
I recently had the radiator of my 1951 V8 Ford recored...yes there are shops that still do that. It cost a bit more then the new Shoebox Central radiator, but the peace of mind that it was sure to fit the car it came out of was worth it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top