Replacement Battery

Thanks NK I was totally unaware of the existence of such a battery. It would be a bit complicated but LiPo batteries can operate just fine at partial charge and the output voltage of a LiPo battery is directly proportional to the state of charge. If you could reduce the charge level to say 13 Volts then I think you would be fine.


The problem is that the slope of the voltage/capacity curve is such that reducing the charge to 13V means you’re running the battery at something like 20% charged all the time. I don’t think he wants to do that.
 
+1 on Optima - also on using a Battery Tender. The AGM batteries have a different charging profile so make sure you get a tender that will properly charge an AGM battery.
 
Big Hammer, Here is an article that I wrote about the battery. The Model T Bendix spring mentioned in the article did not work. The resistance is too high and the starter motor would not crank the engine over. When I get some time I am going to experiment with cutting the Bendix spring in half.
 

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+1 on Optima - also on using a Battery Tender. The AGM batteries have a different charging profile so make sure you get a tender that will properly charge an AGM battery.

This is not true for battery maintainers, only chargers. AGM batteries have low internal resistance, so if you have a charger that pumps out 10 amps or more, it needs to have a specific AGM setting so that it doesn't mis-read the low resistance as indicating a low charge. However, for a battery maintainer that only puts out 1A or so, there is no risk of overheating an AGM battery.

In fact I don't think there's a single maintainer on the market today that (1) puts out less than 2A and (2) has a separate setting for 6V AGM. Let me know if you find one.
 
Wow, I never thought that a battery question would be so controversial.

Let's see, so what kind of oil do battery users use?:eek:

By the way, I like my 6-volt Optimas
 
An Electronic Voltage Regulator (EVR) will help prolong the life of a battery.

A Model A generator puts out over 9V until the load matches the third brush setting. A 6V battery gases off the electrolyte at a battery charge voltage above 7.2V. Draining the battery if the electrical load is above the third brush setting (head lights on) is not good for the battery either. Ford knew the implications of the battery overcharge condition and for this reason, the Instruction Book recommends the battery electrolyte level be checked every two weeks (which nobody does these days).

It was not until the late 1930’s when Ford came out with a voltage regulator that was relay based and combined with the cutout. This voltage regulator was external to the generator.

Tom Wesenberg, who was active on this forum, designed and sold an EVR that fits within the generator. The EVR, similar to moving the third brush in the generator, regulates the current to the field coils to control the power output of the generator. The EVR allows for a maximum generator output voltage of 7.2 volts which is the maximum charge voltage for a 6V battery. As a secondary benefit, the EVR continues to regulate the power to the field coils in the event the generator is disconnected from the battery.

An EVR preserves battery life, mitigates cable/post corrosion and maintains the original and authentic look of the Model A engine compartment (versus a modern alternator).

The regulator I sell is the same basic design that Tom Wesenberg sold for over 20 years and is based on a well-known voltage regulation circuit. I have made a few additional improvements. I give full credit to Tom for his ingenuity and for all the help he gave all of us in the Model A community over the years. I have EVRs for the long-style generator in addition to the 3 and 5 brush Powerhouse generators. They are easy to install - Steve Blancard has a great youtube video on how to install the EVR here - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SWQdF3xKaaY. Steve refurbishes generators and cutouts and also sells the EVR.

The EVRs are $80 plus shipping. I can be contacted at hill.mf@gmail.com.
 

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