Replacement 4-blade fan. What say you?

Kube

Super Moderator
Staff member
Guys, I'm having an issue getting my aluminum 2-blade fan to seat correctly on a new "leakless" pump from Mike's Affordable.
I have read a bit about "new" pump shafts having incorrectly ground tapers.
I'm thinking of buying one of their 4-blade fans.
What might I be getting myself into here?

Thanks men!

Mike
 
I am not sure what the problem is but what makes us think a four bladed fan is going to fit better than your two bladed fan if the shaft taper is incorrect?
 
I am not sure what the problem is but what makes us think a four bladed fan is going to fit better than your two bladed fan if the shaft taper is incorrect?

I am not certain the taper is incorrect. I do not have an authentic pump for comparison.
I have read numerous accounts of the reproduction pump shafts being made incorrectly. Do I have one? I'm simply not sure at this time.
I am attempting to figure out exactly what the issue is.
 
There was a time also when the taper on the aluminum fans was wrong and did not fit the shaft taper of correct shafts!

I am sure that some of these bad parts are still out there causing problems.
 
if the fan hub is hitting the snout of the water pump, take a little off the pump to allow the fan to move back more on the shaft.
 
Color the tapered part of the shaft with a magic marker.Then hold the impeller in one hand,and slide the fan hub on the other end.Push hard,and spin the fan while holding the impeller still.Pull the fan back off and see what kind of contact you have.
 
The aluminum 2-blade fans are notorious for not fitting on the water pumps because they rub on the snout of the water pumps. Snyder’s instructions (https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/content/Snyders/Product_PDFs/A-8600-A%20ALUMINUM%20FAN.pdf) talk about this, and Snyder’s should know, they manufacture these things for all the vendors. The solution is to turn or grind down the snout of the water pump housing. I’ve had to do this to four water pump housings in the last two years, and have built a jig to clamp an assembled pump in the lathe to make it quick and easy. I turn the nose to about 1.630" (1-5/8"+) from the nose to where the boss for the front grease fitting comes out.

If you don’t have the pump apart and can't chuck it up in a lathe, the way to do this is to put fresh paint on the snout, then slip the fan onto the shaft and turn it as you very lightly press on it. It will rub and leave a mark on the pump where it hits. File or grind that down, then continue. When you have it turning freely, take just a bit more off to allow for heat expansion. Repaint the snout and you’re ready to go.

The reason this happens, especially with “leakless” pumps, is that the bore (or overbores in the case of the “leakless” pumps with bearings) may be perpendicular to the mounting surface, but may not be exactly centered on the front of the nose. The cast aluminum fans, on the other hand, are a bit thicker than the original stamped fan, and interferences develop.
 
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Many times the aluminum fan will rub slightly on the water pump casting and you have to grind or file a little bit of the water pump casting I ran into this problem on mine and I've read many others that had the same problem.
 
So do you have the old pump or old pump shaft ? Try your fan on that, might be easer than finding a known "good" fan right now
 
The aluminum 2-blade fans are notorious for not fitting on the water pumps because they rub on the snout of the water pumps. Snyder’s instructions (https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/content/Snyders/Product_PDFs/A-8600-A ALUMINUM FAN.pdf) talk about this, and Snyder’s should know, they manufacture these things for all the vendors. The solution is to turn or grind down the snout of the water pump housing. I’ve had to do this to four water pump housings in the last two years, and have built a jig to clamp an assembled pump in the lathe to make it quick and easy. If you don’t have the pump apart and can chuck it up in a lathe, the way to do this is to put fresh paint on the snout, then slip the fan onto the shaft and turn it as you very lightly press on it. It will rub and leave a mark on the pump where it hits. File or grind that down, then continue. When you have it turning freely, take just a bit more off to allow for heat expansion. Repaint the snout and you’re ready to go.

The reason this happens, especially with “leakless” pumps, is that the bore (or overbores in the case of the “leakless” pumps with bearings) may be perpendicular to the mounting surface, but may not be exactly centered on the front of the nose. The cast aluminum fans, on the other hand, are a bit thicker than the original stamped fan, and interferences develop.

I did place clearance in the fan hub. It (the taper) does not match the taper of the pump shaft.

I just got a Ford fan a couple of hours ago but have yet had time to check it. I am hoping to figure out where exactly the issue is.
 
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