Replace Water Outlet

[Bruce of MN]

I cracked my water pump outlet and want to replace it. The motor is a fresh rebuild and hasn't been started. Can I just remove the nuts, leave the copper gasket, install the part, and torque it down? Or do I need to slacken all the head nuts and retorque all?

 

[BButturff]

I replaced mine because I wanted to install a probe for a temperature gauge. This was on a working engine with a sealed head gasket and I did not loosen all the rest of the head nuts. I don't know if this was the correct method but it worked.

 

[nkaminar]

You do not have to slacken all the nuts. Just remove the goose neck and replace it, torquing it down in steps. Most people recommend not using a gasket because it can lead to a cracked ear. They recommend just some gasket cement. After replacing the goose neck check the torque on the rest of the nuts. Make sure the surface on the head is clean, free of grease, and flat.

 

[Joe K]

One method used to prevent cracked ears is place the gasket, preferably a thin paper one and not the deluxe copper faced gasket. Then lay a paper match "flat" on the tangent of the bolt/gasket juncture on the outside of the bolts such that it will "support" the outboard portion of the "ear."

Then tighten normally easing in on each side.

Older pictures of this show the copper gasket and a wooden match - perhaps the thicknesses agree for this too?

I'm actually at Permatex No. 2 for this - no gasket.

Joe K

 

[Gary WA]

I cracked my water pump outlet and want to replace it. The motor is a fresh rebuild and hasn't been started. Can I just remove the nuts, leave the copper gasket, install the part, and torque it down? Or do I need to slacken all the head nuts and retorque all?

Yes you can and do not torque other existing head nuts-no need to.

 

[Bob Bidonde]

These slides should be useful.

 

[old ugly]

for the time it takes just go ahead and check all the head bolt torques after you change the neck.
if it has ran a bit its a good idea.

the only nut that is not easily to check is the nut beside the distributer, put a wrench on it or don't worry bout it.

 

[Joe K]

I've seen them but don't own one. Are "aluminum" water necks any more resistant to cracking?


Joe K

 

[old31]

I have been using the "right stuff" goo with no gaskets for the longest time and no problems.

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-25228-Gasket-Maker/dp/B07R4C3KJB/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[nkaminar]

Bob, I have some comments about your slide #3. The thermostat should be installed at the bottom of the rubber radiator hose to assure that it accurately reacts to hot coolant. The holes in the flange should be enlarged to 1/4 inch so that enough hot coolant is flowing so that the thermostat operates correctly. With the smaller holes the thermostat will not open until the engine is super hot and then a hot batch of coolant gets into the radiator which acts like the engine is over heating, pushing coolant out the overflow tube and radiator cap. The thermostat then closes down again the cycle repeats. This from my personal experience. With the 1/4 inch holes the thermostat can be left in winter and summer. The thermostat will operate correctly to keep the coolant at the set temperature.