Replace differential seals and gaskets

ThosD

ThosD

Member
Is there info for changing differential gaskets and seals that does not require disassembly of the gear set and spider? My eyes are getting bleary from searching the Model A forums and the Big Red book goes straight to a complete tear down.

I have noticed that my differential is weeping between the axle bells and the banjo and the left side grease seal is leaking. I would like to just change gaskets and seals. I only drove my car for few blocks before I started tearing into it to redo the brakes and refurbish the steering and leaf springs, so I am not aware of any bearing or gear issues.
 
ThosD said:
Is there info for changing differential gaskets and seals that does not require disassembly of the gear set and spider? My eyes are getting bleary from searching the Model A forums and the Big Red book goes straight to a complete tear down.

I have noticed that my differential is weeping between the axle bells and the banjo and the left side grease seal is leaking. I would like to just change gaskets and seals. I only drove my car for few blocks before I started tearing into it to redo the brakes and refurbish the steering and leaf springs, so I am not aware of any bearing or gear issues.
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To answer your question - no. The only way to replace gaskets and seals is to disassemble the rear axle. Plenty of info on this is available online. The best reference I;ve seen is the article by Tom Endy of the Santa Anita A’s.

Don’t be intimidated - this is easier than it sounds if you have access to a spring spreader and have a helper. And, there are people on this forum who can help with any questions you have.

Good luck - Jim
 
This is the quickest way to get the rear axle apart which is necessary to replace its gaskets & seals.
 

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  • Rear Axles – Quick Removal.jpg
    Rear Axles – Quick Removal.jpg
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Thanks to all for your responses. I was afraid that I may need a special tool; I do have the spring spreader.
 
It sounds like your rear end might need a general overhaul. If your seals are leaking they are either pretty old or original. To do that there are some special tools.
 
When you remove the axle housings from the centre section check the gaskets. There should be one gasket on either side, but may have more than one on either or both sides. Sometimes additional gaskets are used/required for adjusting ring to pinion mesh.
 
redmodelt said:
Sorry, but there is more, as posted above, than just replacing seals and gaskets. The housings to center section gaskets are what is used to set preload on the carrier and pinion and ring gear mesh.

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His gasket set should include multiple gaskets for that purpose.
 
You may want to get a 0 to 1 inch micrometer and measure the existing gaskets so they can be replaced with the same thickness.
 
Also make sure that all bolts return to the original location and do not use a thread chaser on either the internal or external threads. They are a different pitch than more common bolts of similar size. If any need replacing for any reason buy new ones specifically for the part being delt with. (This applies to the banjo to axle housings and banjo to torque tube.)Mike the gaskets for thickness and replace as found. So what we are saying is make sure every part taken off goes back where it came from or is replaced with a like part in all measurements, unless you are ready to overhaul the entire thing, which is often unnecessary if you are just curing a modest dripping leak. Also, I would download Tom Endy's instructions and print them to have in front of me all the way through. See #8 above.
 
The above responses identify concerns that arose once I started sourcing gaskets. Some comprehensive gasket sets include pairs of varying thickness for the center section gaskets. I am of the mind at this point to just complete the brake and spring work and drive the car for a while to determine the condition of the differential. Pulling the rear axle at a later date is not as daunting as screwing up the rear end by trying a quick fix for an oil leak. Spindle grease seals for now.
 
A suggestion:

Drain the banjo and one at a time remove each of the twenty-banjo bolts and coat the threads with sealer and replace. Torque all banjo bolts to 35 ft. lbs. This may solve your problem and if not, it will not cause any damage.

Tom Endy
 
Tom Endy said:
A suggestion:

Drain the banjo and one at a time remove each of the twenty-banjo bolts and coat the threads with sealer and replace. Torque all banjo bolts to 35 ft. lbs. This may solve your problem and if not, it will not cause any damage.

Tom Endy
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Thank you for the suggestion; it's on my things to do list.
 
I would like to echo the poster above about owning (and using) a micrometer....for close tolerance measurements like this (gasket thickness for setting mesh) the micrometer is easy to use and very reliable.

Every Model A owner should have a 0-1" micrometer...even one of the cheaper versions will provide the accuracy needed.
 
Be careful when measuring gasket thickness, the old, compressed gaskets are slightly thinner than the new ones you'll be replacing them with.
 
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