repairing a crack in block
- Thread starter hellmet
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Bruce Lancaster
Member Emeritus
Talk with Grimlock/Kevin Lee on the HAMB. No one sane will touch this, but sane isn't everyone's cup of tea.
I personally think such a crack can be terminated and clamped to keep a good engine in action but don't think it a good idea for a core block that is about to get expensive work. If repaired...clamping or pro welding. I don't think pinning is appropriate because this is a narrow hollow area of jacket in which pinning would force casting apart rather than bracing the crack against a wide, strong area.
I personally think such a crack can be terminated and clamped to keep a good engine in action but don't think it a good idea for a core block that is about to get expensive work. If repaired...clamping or pro welding. I don't think pinning is appropriate because this is a narrow hollow area of jacket in which pinning would force casting apart rather than bracing the crack against a wide, strong area.
craneygartz
Junior Member
The taper threaded screws (and their special tap) sold I think by lock and stitch will sure work if the area is accessible for drilling and tapping. Had a '57 392 Chrysler fixed this way outside near the center "freeze" plug.
There is also Nickel 55 stick rod repairs. Here is an old lathe headstock I have been working on with better results than I expected.
John Oder
There is also Nickel 55 stick rod repairs. Here is an old lathe headstock I have been working on with better results than I expected.
John Oder
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Mr 42
Senior Member
I have one 8BA engine that is like new, but with cracks at tha oilpan, crank spinns really fine.
Ive seen a couple of engine's that was mig welded in that area.
But im thinking of brazing mine, since you "only" need to close the water passage, and not add any structural strenght.
Maybe even use silversolder since it penetrates so good.
Thought's anyone??
Ive seen a couple of engine's that was mig welded in that area.
But im thinking of brazing mine, since you "only" need to close the water passage, and not add any structural strenght.
Maybe even use silversolder since it penetrates so good.
Thought's anyone??
Mike51Merc
Well-known member
Frank repaired a 1922 Rickenbacher engine for me 15 year ago.He put over 24" of lock stitch and bow ties in it .It never leaked a drop and I have put many miles on it since.Thanks Phil
Ronnie
Well-known member
Stitching is a viable option there are various types of pins available. Welding would not be my choice as the parent metal becomes glass hard,and there is also the possibility of stress cracks during the cool down.I'm not saying don't weld it as many will chime in with what their dad's and gram-pas did.If you weld it take it somewhere and get a competent welders advice.Cast iron welding can be a crap shoot. I can say i have used stitching myself with good success and many machine shops use that system on a regular basis. Just my .02 cents. Research your repair. Blocks arn't that hard to find.Pictures would help some.
I let a 90 Olds wagon freeze up. It had vertical cracks from the deck to the pan on both sides. I grooved the cracks about half deep and had at it with the arc welder. One continus pass each side straight down. Never leaked or gave any trouble whatsoever. Drove it 30k more.
richard crow
Well-known member
if the crack is at the side near the bottom . tap along the block whith a small hammer just above the pan rail the block is thin there frome the get go & after 50 years they have been knowed to rot out if it,s rotted nothing will last.always do this test when buying an eng