Repair Ideas..?

No,no, the firewall is not part of the tank. There is plenty of room between the two to place some 1/4" metal plate and a asbestos welding blanket. Use you mig and spot weld a well fitted piece in place. That is what I did, and I also backed up the firewall with a plate for strength. I turned down the head of two bolts for the bracket to look like rivets.
 
The seem below the coil is where you unbolt it, along with inside the car on both sides of the kick panel. there are bolts under the dash panel too.
 
do you have the piece that broke out of the firewall? if so you should reuse this piece to repair the firewall it will be a perfect fit.
 
I guess that's what I meant...that the firewall panel is not the the tank wall, but that it is part of the fuel tank assembly.....I thought they were separate... there is about an inch of space between the firewall panel and the tank wall...

I'll spend a little time under there with a flashlight and figure out how it comes apart....

I do not have the broken out piece, or the bracket, or the rod...

The one on the passenger side is still intact...
 
Yes your idea with the structural adhesive is a good one. Clean up the metal and shape the hole nicely. I'd square it up and just round the corners. Then bond a panel into the back of the firewall and let it set up. Then make a insert panel for the hole and bond it into place. Once the adhesive is dry,sand out the area and make it straight. Then you can rivet in a new rod mount. I like to use 3M's Panel Bond. I've done some crazy repairs with it and 6-8 years later they're still good and solid. It has the same shear strength as a weld. 80,000 psi. Hope this helps. J. Poole
 
I agree with Rex vin tin and Don, I wouldn't remove the tank. Pump some exhaust in it and weld it up, I blazed a gas tank on a car I had a few years back that way, just a winter beater and it got me through the winter. Pete
 
I guess it all boils down to what kind of welder you have,and what kind of welder you are.With the little wire feeds everybody seems to have now it is a simple job.You have an inch of air space between the firewall and the tank,you would have to work pretty hard to get the wire to jump that inch,then burn a hole in the tank.The only worry to me is the vented gas cap.A wet rag over the top of it would take care of that.You could hold your hand behind that hole as you welded it,it would just feel hot.
 
OK I see how it comes off...I went through the book again and it all makes sense.....

I looked into the tank and there is a cylindrical section of mesh steel, maybe 2 1/2" in diameter and about 6 or 8 inches long. It is just laying loose in the bottom of the tank...

Was there a filter in the filler neck at one time?
 

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I looked into the tank and there is a cylindrical section of mesh steel, maybe 2 1/2" in diameter and about 6 or 8 inches long. It is just laying loose in the bottom of the tank...

Was there a filter in the filler neck at one time?

answered your own question....................
 
I remembered the part about the tank coming out from under the cowl top, but I didnt remember the part about the firewall section and the tank being made together.Here's a couple of pics that should make it clear what you are dealing with:






Sorry I bum-doped ya . Having looked at it again more closely, I wouldnt bother taking the tank out myself, but you might find it easier if you do.
Good Luck
 
That is not how my tank comes out.....there is no cowl section over the tank, the tank IS the cowl..the entire unit separates at the seam I'm pointing to in the side picture, along with the seam on the firewall....my tank is also the dash board, and knee banger..all one unit..
 
ronn said:
I looked into the tank and there is a cylindrical section of mesh steel, maybe 2 1/2" in diameter and about 6 or 8 inches long. It is just laying loose in the bottom of the tank...

Was there a filter in the filler neck at one time?

answered your own question....................
Click to expand...

I went out and looked it over with a flashlight.....I had to move the remains of the neck filter because when I installed the new fuel valve the pencil filter moved the neck filter screen enough that it interfered with the fuel gauge float....

Anyway I can see a screw-in( I guess) collar of sorts and part of the screen is still attached....
 
1955cj5 said:
That is not how my tank comes out.....there is no cowl section over the tank, the tank IS the cowl..the entire unit separates at the seam I'm pointing to in the side picture, along with the seam on the firewall....my tank is also the dash board, and knee banger..all one unit..
Click to expand...
OK, I had to go out rambling around with the flashlight too, you have my curiosity up.:)
The 30 model I have has the seam you show, and the tank appears to lift out the top, but the firewall is one piece.
The date on the one I posted pics of here is 6-20-29. Maybe someone will comment and I can learn something.
Hope you get yours fixed!
 
Ya know, it seems these old cars and trucks are a little mysterious....I know how mine is (at least I'm learning), and I'm sure it is similar to others.....mine is a conglomerate..1930 engine,AA transmission, 29 cab, frame is yet to be determined....but I think it may be a 30 only because of the wire spring type brake springs....
 
Rex,what you have pictured is a Fordor cowl.He doesn't have that style.He has the exposed tank,with a joint on the sides.His tank just comes up and out,not out from under as on the early Fordors.
 
I would do as Vin Tin said and weld in the missing piece after tracing the pattern to a piece of the same gauge steel. You can use magnets to hold the new piece in place and keep the weld seam even.
 
I would probably weld with tank in place ONLY IF I HAD TO. Sliding a piece of sheet metal something in between as a heat barrier. Fill tank with H2O. Better/safer to separate tank and wall if possible. I'm a tig guy so very little heat is possible. I would either make a cardboard pattern or cleco a metal piece behind the hole to facilitate a felt pen outline to make the pattern for the patch. Weld cleco holes. +1 on the short weld beads to prevent warpage/excessive heat.
 
Keith True said:
Rex,what you have pictured is a Fordor cowl.He doesn't have that style.He has the exposed tank,with a joint on the sides.His tank just comes up and out,not out from under as on the early Fordors.
Click to expand...

Don Turley said:
Rex_A_Lott, the cowl in your photos is from either a four door sedan or a Cabriolet. The tank is under the top cowl panel on those body styles. 1955cj5 has a Pickup. The tank lifts off of the cowl from the top side, the same way as a Tudor or Coupe.
Click to expand...
Thanks for that info guys! Sorry for hi-jacking the thread.
 
I know it is a job to get the tank out of your rig (I have done it 2 or 3 times) but from you describe about your tank and what is inside, I still say find a different good tank assembly and put it is while you are rebuilding our rig. Bert's in Denver may have just what you need.
 
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