Renumbering question

I guess it depends where you love but most dmv workers just look at numbers. If it look s ok I would think there would not be a problem.
 
Even if you buy a car from your state, and the seller does not say anything about the engine being re-stamped, how would you know that it had been re-stamped!
 
Compare the surface texture of the sorrounding block to the #/stamp area. Typically when re-stamping, teh old # is ground off causing a smoother/different texture than on the block
 
On our 1929 Sport Coupe that we have had for over 40 years. The engine was replaced with a rebuilt in the late 70’s. No question was asked by the engine rebuilder, he ground down the old number on rebuilt engine and re-stamped with the cars frame and original engine number.

If I did it today, I never would have let the original block out of my sight.

If not the original block? Than you have to do what you have to do. Numbers should match.

Enjoy.
 
I would post a picture but don’t know how to re size them. The serial number boss on the motor out of my truck has machine marks still visible where original numbers were removed.
 
It would be interesting to know how many Model A’s today have their original engine still in them, vs restored or re- built A’s that have another engine, but matching numbers. I bought my A restored from New York, and it has an engine with matching frame number, but is a diamond block, so I know it’s not original. Do I care....no, and I had no trouble registering here in California. If numbers don’t somehow match you are in trouble.....
 
from the amount of As I have personally owned Terry- I figure it to be about 1 in 4 that has a truly original engine. just my take.........
 
Working with the government, is normally a pain in the ***! Renumbering the block is about the only thing that you can do. If the number on the engine matches the paper work, then the car will be registered...if not...many strange things can happen. I purchased a rebuilt engine for my first A in about 1964. The builder put my original engine number on the rebuilt engine and my old engine received the original number that was on the rebuilt block. It would have taken a pretty good Model A person to figure out what had been done. Since the engines are about the same it is a moot point driven by the need to register the car with DMV people who are 'C' students on their very best day! Ernie in Arizona
 
The number on the title for my 1931 coupe matches the numbers on the engine and frame but the numbers on the engine and frame, while the same number, do not quite match each other. The engine turned out to be a 1937 diamond and is stamped with the newer 1,6 and 9 but the frame has the original numers 1, 6 and 9. One of those times when matching numbers don't quite match.
 
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Most re-numbered blocks were done by milling off the old number and stamping on the new number. The milling leaves a "milled" surface which is a dead give away that the number has been altered. The original surface was a rough casting surface due to the sand mold. It almost looks like someone took a ball peen hammer or needle gun to rough up the surface. But that would have to have been done before the stamping because the hammer or gun would obliterate the number.
 
If you do re-stamp make sure that when you strike the stamp with the hammer hit it good and solid. Trying to get the stamp lined up just right to finish a number that wasn't struck hard enough the first time is not an easy thing to do.
 
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1crosscut said:
If you do re-stamp make sure that when you strike the stamp with the hammer hit it good and solid. Trying to get the stamp lined up just right to finish a number that wasn't st(r)uck hard enough the first time is not an easy thing to do.
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It really isn't hard to do if you prepare for it. We fabricated a jig out of angle iron that bolts to the water inlet and provides a level platform for the stamp(s) to set on before being struck with a hammer.



For those that are struggling with a milled or ground texture on the pad, Harbor Freight (-and others) sell an air powered Needle Scaler that will reinstall the texture prior to stamping. The perimeter of the pad needs to be protected so the needles do not jump off of the pad, but the cast surface can be replicated in just a few moments with one of those tools. A hint for the tool though, you likely will want to dull some of the needle points for an accurate appearing finish. After awhile, mine has kinda dulled itself.
 
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