Removing water Pump

A

Airrace

Junior Member
I am trying to remove the water pump from 1939 Ford flathead and it won't come loose. I have removed all of the bolts including the bolt in the lower inlet of the water hose area, so that is not it. Do I have to raise the engine to take the pressure off of the motor mount? or is there another trick?

Thanks in advance
 
yes you have to jack up the engine, if your sure you have all the bolts removed including the one in the bottom outlet and the bolts bolting it to the frame , the gasket probably has been glued to the block and engine, get a thin scrapper and carefully drive it between the pump and engine, tap the pump carefully with a brass hammer, slow and easy is the key, lots of patience also
 
Thanks for the information.

Were would you recommend to put the jack at to raise the motor. Do I need to remove anything else before I raise the motor?

Thanks in advance
 
put a 2x4 or 2x6 on top of a hydralic jack under the front of the pan, only need to lift the engine about an inch
 
Airrace said:
I am trying to remove the water pump from 1939 Ford flathead and it won't come loose. I have removed all of the bolts including the bolt in the lower inlet of the water hose area, so that is not it. Do I have to raise the engine to take the pressure off of the motor mount? or is there another trick?

Thanks in advance
Click to expand...
Be very careful,sounds like your motor is being held up by the stuck gasket ,SUPPORT the motor before you do anything.ken ct.:eek:
 
I think I will just order a pair of pumps from Bob Drakes and put them in the same time I take the old ones out. I don't want to leave the motor on jacks till I get them rebuilt.

Thanks for everyone help!
 
I think it's best to use a rubber mallet ...when u reinstall the new water pumps put the bottom bolt in with a little anti-cease...good luck
 
use a stainless steel bolt in the hole inside the water pump outlet, steel bolts in that location have a tendency to rust and can be a bear to remove, and as was stated becareful with the engine i would put a couple of bolts back in the pump till you have engine jacked up and firmly supported
 
no it wont, every body uses them after they have tried to remove a steel bolt that has rusted and you cant get a socket on the head, you spend hours trying to make something to grab on to whats left of the head, every old mechanic has had that night mare
 
Last edited:
John Kennedy said:
Wouldn't stainless gall and become a nightmare? Maybe I'm wrong............?
Click to expand...

No stainlesss bolts won't gall if you put plenty of anti seize compound on them. IDEA: First, run a die over the new stainless bolt threads just to "clean them up", if needed.
 
On the jacking...you pretty much have to jack against the pan. My opinion is that an old fat phonebook makes a soft and flexible pad, easier on the tin than wood.
 
I found a 2 X 6 about 10"s long across wide flat part of the pad with the wood under the part of the pan just at the point it drops down at the front. I have seen a few that got a big dent in them from jacking if not supported. You only have to jack the engine a 1/4" to get the pumps off. G.M.
 
I wanted to first of all thank everyone for all there help. I removed the old water pumps this weekend and installed new Bob Drake water pumps and can't wait to see how they will operate. It easy easy thanks to all of your help!

Bill
 
Hi,
after the old pump is removed, purchase a stainless steel bolt, cut the head off, rethread the cut off end. Now you have a stud. After applying anti seze, screw the stud in the block, slide the new pump on and secure the pump with a nut.
It is much easier to remove a nut than a rusted-in bolt the idea is, the nut is not exposed to the water in the coolng system.
Be advised that not all stainless steel hardware is really "stainless". Take a small magnet and see which "stainless" is really stainless? The one that is really stainless will not stick to your magnet.


Al



'stainless" nu
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top