Removing Transmission/Clutch Housing

dmaxweb

dmaxweb

Well-known member
I recall seeing something in an old issue of The Restorer about someone making a bracket that would lay accross the frame inside the car that would allow you to lower the ****** from above rather than balancing on a jack from below. Anyone have anything on this?
 
steve norcal said:
i have used a 2x4 & a small ratchet strap with good luck ............ steve
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I did not think of a ratchet strap. I can see how that would make raising it into place easy but how would you lower it? If you release the ratchet wouldn't it release completely and allow it to fall?
 
I built a 2 X 6 frame with a crossmember that was slightly lower than the steering column. In fact, it wedged in against the s. c. The uprights rested on the frame rails. Then I used construction (drywall) screws to add a 2 X 4 brace from the middle of the upright to the base of the seat frame. (Clear as mud?)
Think very rustic three-legged swing set. I added an eyebolt to the crossmember and then hooked in my chain fall (Jack calls it a coffin hoist). It did a very neat job of lifting the transmission and bell housing for reinstallation.
I wish you were a bit closer because I still have it taking up room above a cabinet ... and I learned that a close-by Model A friend has a brand new transmission hoist. Well, it is not brand new anymore. It is holding up the trans on our Roadster while I find time to re-install the engine. Gotta get some gumption up, too.
 
I have used / made what have worked for me for years, I took a piece of 3/4 water pipe with tread. ,cut it off to 2 " lenght. that part will fit in to the oil drain plug hole. I removed from my floor jack the top arm the swivel part. ( mostly done by removing the cotterpin ) now find in the trashcan a piece of metal that fits in the hole of the of the toparm and in to the 3/4 pipe end , wrap a strap around the gearbox and your done.

Gerard
 
Over the winter I too have to drop the rear end and take out the transmission. anyone have a step by step or website outlining good techniques or ways of doing this?
 
I would say invest a couple of bucks in the books of Les Andrews . You'l find most of your questions answerred.
 
Yeah I have the Les Andrews book. just wondering if anyone had any tips and what not or thing to look out for.
 
A favorite: Use scrap 2 X 4's to make "rails" to roll the rear end out from under the car on the brake drums. Without wheels, the backing plates are the low point and, of course, they don't roll.
 
Bruce said:
A favorite: Use scrap 2 X 4's to make "rails" to roll the rear end out from under the car on the brake drums. Without wheels, the backing plates are the low point and, of course, they don't roll.
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Good point Bruce, I found a new use for my motorcycle lift to pull therear end fast and it works like a cradle for the trans as well!
 
In the 49 thru 51 Lincoln Mercury overhaul manual they show a little hoist (P/N J-1636-C) that was made to fit inside the car to aid in removing the Hydramatic transmission from the Lincoln models. It would take the weight of the trans up so you could disingage the trans from the engine then turn the crank to lower it to the floor under the car. It was like a little double a-frame with a small cable operated hoist. I guess those old Lincoln Hydramatics were pretty heavy.
 
rotorwrench said:
In the 49 thru 51 Lincoln Mercury overhaul manual they show a little hoist (P/N J-1636-C) that was made to fit inside the car to aid in removing the Hydramatic transmission from the Lincoln models. It would take the weight of the trans up so you could disingage the trans from the engine then turn the crank to lower it to the floor under the car. It was like a little double a-frame with a small cable operated hoist. I guess those old Lincoln Hydramatics were pretty heavy.
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do you have a picture you could post?
 
I have removed the rear end, spring etc several times for various reasons. The problem that I have had on all of those occasions is getting the rear spring correctly in position in the rear crossmember. The bolt heat on the spring holding it togethere has to go into a hole in the crossmember. With the spring attached to the rear end it is not that easy.

Sooo, the next time I have to remove the rear end I will spread the spring, remove rear backing plates (easy to do), knock out the shackles, remove the speedo setup, radius rods etc. and pull the rear end out. IMO this is easier than dealing with the rear spring. And less dangerous.

Dick
 
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