Removing the Rear Assembly from '40 Ford

Pat/Ohio

Pat/Ohio

Well-known member
Hello 'Barners.....I am about to remove the rear assembly from my 40 Conv. I have the car on my lift (4-post). I have removed the wheels, brake lines, emergency brake cables, & shock links. Next would be removing the four bolts from the universal joint cap and disconnecting the spring (I have a spring spreader). I have the axle resting on jack stands and a hydraulic jack placed under the frame in front of the rear assembly. I will be raising the frame and removing the jack stands before I proceed.

Questions: Universal joint cap....Do I remove the cap from the tube before pulling the rear? It looks like a tight fit through the cross member.

After spreading the spring...I am assuming that I remove the shackle pins from the axle bracket and not the spring itself. (Can you tell I have never removed a rear end assembly before?)

How am I doing so far? Suggestions?

Merry Christmas, Pat
 
Pat: I would take the entire assembly out of the car then when out take the spring off. Just the way I do it. Dave/Green Bay
 
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Like Dave says, leave the spring on the axle, undo the u-bolts holding the spring to the frame.

Mart.
 
Pat, remove the universal cap from the torque tube. Usually there is not sufficient room between the floor pan and center of X member to get the bell end of the torque tube out. Sometimes you have to remove the bolts holding the floor pan down on the X member and raise the floor pan with shims enough to allow the torque tube bell to come back through that area.
I would remove the two U bolts holding the spring to the rear cross member and lower the complete rear assembly until top of spring clears rear cross member and then roll the complete rear assembly back and out from under the car. I usually do not do this final part of rear removal when the car is raised on a lift.
 
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First swap the jack stands position, The front wheels should securely blocked to keep the vehicle from rolling. By placing a floor jack under the rear axle and raising the car the jack stands should be placed under the frame to a point where the rear wheels of the car are just off the ground. As already suggested it is easiest to remove the unit in one piece and then separate the rear spring once removed from the car. You should be able to access and remove the U-joint collar thru the transmission cover area. Once you have removed all the connecting lines, cables, shocks and rear u-bolts, you can remove the rear wheels and slowly lower the rear axle from the rear cross member cradle. It might take a little help from a pry bar to loosen the spring but it will fall as the jack is lowered.
 
Be careful working around the rear spring after you get it out of the car w/axle assy. Wrap a chain around it until you can determine that the center bolt is good.
Paul in CT Many postings on the A board covering this in the last couple of days
 
Thanks guys.....I think I've got it! I have someone helping me...probably after the holidays.

Pat
 
Pat you will be just fine I am sure.Good advice from these guys on this forum.
I am curious as to why you are removing the rear end ?
This may be something I may have to do someday.
It was easy to install with body off but I have never done this on a completed 40.

Kind Regards

Travis in KY.
 
I leave mine right on wheels and lift the frame up and roll it out. This week I put an entire rear assembly in my 34. (changed gears) Completely assembled everything on the shop floor including brake cable, drums and wheels. Built a spring and new shackles etc. Rolled it right under there yesterday, lowered the frame down over the springs and bolted everything up. Easy as pie.
Now I can adjust brakes and bleed the lines etc.
 
tb40 said:
Pat you will be just fine I am sure.Good advice from these guys on this forum.
I am curious as to why you are removing the rear end ?
This may be something I may have to do someday.
It was easy to install with body off but I have never done this on a completed 40.

Kind Regards

Travis in KY.
Click to expand...

Travis....I am going to swap out the 4:11 in favor of a 3:54 gear. I would like to drive the car on some tours and more club activities.

Regards,
Pat
 
Straightpipes said:
I leave mine right on wheels and lift the frame up and roll it out. This week I put an entire rear assembly in my 34. (changed gears) Completely assembled everything on the shop floor including brake cable, drums and wheels. Built a spring and new shackles etc. Rolled it right under there yesterday, lowered the frame down over the springs and bolted everything up. Easy as pie.
Now I can adjust brakes and bleed the lines etc.
Click to expand...

Hey Straightpipes....Watcha doin' tomorrow!! lol Boy, I envy folks that go right in there after it! Pat
 
Pat/Ohio said:
Hey Straightpipes....Watcha doin' tomorrow!! lol Boy, I envy folks that go right in there after it! Pat
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Tomorrow I will nurse all the aches and pains from crawling around on the shop floor..........I'm gettin a little old for this stuff, not TOO old tho.
 
the 34 rear comes out a lot ezer than the 40. the floor on the 40 can be a real pain as it,s a tight fit now for the 354 gears i put them in my 40 & had clutch sliping when accel. in second speed .if you drive light & don,t have hills the 9" clutch is ok but your better off with the 10 "
 
Richard, I have a 3.54 in my '32 5W (V8) and it works great. It's not too hilly around here. I'm hoping that it will work out alright with the 3.54. If not, I may need to increase the size of the clutch. Thanks, Pat
 
Pat/Ohio said:
Travis....I am going to swap out the 4:11 in favor of a 3:54 gear. I would like to drive the car on some tours and more club activities.

Regards,
Pat
Click to expand...
Pat
Why in the world does you 40 have 4;11 gears? The standard gear set is 3:78. The 3:54 gear set will work fine and you will not have to get a bigger clutch. Go for it!!
 
A word of caution. This is one of the most dangerous operations performed on a flathead ford. Be sure it is blocked up with modern type stands in front of the radius rods and up front. You will have to crawl around under the car while pulling the Torque tube forward when re installing. While you have everything apart, replace the inner axle seals on each axle housing, there is also a seal behind the driveshaft roller bearing up behind the ujoint. You have to remove the roller bearing shell to get to it.
 
jerry grayson said:
Pat
Why in the world does you 40 have 4;11 gears? The standard gear set is 3:78. The 3:54 gear set will work fine and you will not have to get a bigger clutch. Go for it!!
Click to expand...


Jerry, I have spoken with several '40 owners who have indicated they also had a 4.11 rear. Perhaps the location has something to do with it? My banjo is stamped 9 - 37 (4.11). You can almost start off in 3rd gear!

Merry Christmas,
Pat
 
jimTN said:
A word of caution. This is one of the most dangerous operations performed on a flathead ford. Be sure it is blocked up with modern type stands in front of the radius rods and up front. You will have to crawl around under the car while pulling the Torque tube forward when re installing. While you have everything apart, replace the inner axle seals on each axle housing, there is also a seal behind the driveshaft roller bearing up behind the ujoint. You have to remove the roller bearing shell to get to it.
Click to expand...

Jim, Thanks for the advice! I purchased an "Install Kit" from Joblot a few months ago. I haven't opened it yet, but it's suppose to have the necessary gaskets, seals, etc. to do the job. But, I'll inspect all else as I go.

Merry Christmas,
Pat
 
I have removed the front mat, trans cover, the upper half of the universal joint housing (will remove the lower half after lunch..;)).

I removed the speedometer gear housing (turtle). It has a #21 on the turtle. I have another turtle (#18) to replace the #21 turtle. Will I need to replace the speedometer gear on the drive shaft? I don't have that particular gear in my small "stash" of parts.

Thanks,
Pat
 
no driving speedo gear the same .differnce is in the turtle housing if you have a # 18 housing no proulbem .i may be wrong but i think 18 & 19 is one size housing 20 & 21 an other. i remember i once put a 18 gear in a 21 housing & it did not work
 
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