removing the distributor from the engine.

S

skeazle

Senior Member
A couple of weeks ago I started up my '30 Tudor and it ran perfectly fine for about 10 minutes then it just quit like it would if it was out of gas. No sputtering or anything. I checked the tank for gas and I have 4 inches in it. I have juice all the way to the ignition cable that screws in to the housing. I have juice at the two points at the ammeter but the needle does not move when I turn the key on. I have no spark at the points so I am going to replace the points and condenser and the plate with the longer wire cause the one that's on there looks like it seen better days. Trouble is I want to remove the distributor but it won't lift out. I am wiggling it and prying it with a screw driver and it had moved a little. Should I keep doing this or is it not so good to do that?
 
Did you remove the distributor locking screw on the side with the jam nut on it? Consult with the Model A Ford Mechanics Handbook, Volume 1, page 1-101. A very worthwhile book to own if you do not have it already. Volume 2 has some trouble shooting guides. If the distributor is really stuck and you have removed the screw, then you may need the puller, see https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/product.htm?pid=976320&cat=41753. Snyders is temporally out of stock but the other vendors may have it.

Prying on the distributor can break the casting.
 
Mine was solidly attached to the engine, soaked it with PB Blaster and finall used a 3 foot crow bar, no damage.
Paul in CT
 
Let's ask the other way around...

A new part has to be installed. I have just ordered an old used distributor that will be delivered soon.

What speaks against disassembling and derusting it and then baking it in oil to prevent it from rusting again? Has anyone ever done this?
 
The bolt MUST be completely removed. If not the skinny part of the bolt will hang up in the groove on the distributor housing and then "SNAP"
 
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