Removing Stuck Heads

AM > >take your time 2/3 auto trans 1/3 kero or diesel set the engines so this will stay on the studs> >BE PATIEN[T]>>


Agreed. Build an RTV moat around each stud. Use diesel to fill the moats. Let it soak a week or three. Maybe give each stud occasional taps with a brass hammer or drift to help the diesel penetrate.
 
Yes, patience is the # 1 thing on these matters. Along with what Jack stated above, I like to repeatedly warm things up a bit with the bernzomatic torch. Just enough that it helps the juice sink down in some more. Any change in temp will cause things to move a little.
 
when i was young my father had a 36 ford he wanted to remove the left side head. he decided to remove all the nuts & STAET THE ENG NOTHING HSPPNED .HE DROVED THE CAR FOR A WEEK WITH NO NUTS. he wound up using a hammer & chesel. he hated fords
 
richard crow said:
when i was young my father had a 36 ford he wanted to remove the left side head. he decided to remove all the nuts & STAET THE ENG NOTHING HSPPNED .HE DROVED THE CAR FOR A WEEK WITH NO NUTS. he wound up using a hammer & chesel. he hated fords
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Well, it was -25 degrees here this AM . . . I can understand what he drove for a week. :D
 
head pullers will work but you need to be careful as you dont want to pull the threads out of the pug holes biggest problem is if the head dose move you loose the pull have used in the past but found a valve spring that went over the screw and under the nut this allowed me to keep some tension /pull on the head even though it had moved
 
aussie merc said:
head pullers will work but you need to be careful as you dont want to pull the threads out of the pug holes biggest problem is if the head dose move you loose the pull have used in the past but found a valve spring that went over the screw and under the nut this allowed me to keep some tension /pull on the head even though it had moved
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Yeah, I’m not gonna try that just yet because I’m afraid I’ll pull the threads out of the heads. I have removed five pistons from the bottom and put a block of wood in the cylinder and hit it with a four pound hammer and it just bounces back. I’m thinking about one of those magnetic induction heaters for the studs.
 
I would not use the spark plug holes - you only have 1/2" of threads and in these old aluminum heads, the threads are not that strong. I would try to soak the studs in something that eats up rust and corrosion and I'd use heat as a catalyst. I'd also consider pulling the rest of the pistons/rods (at least the outer 2 on both sides) - then you can use wooden 2x2 and a hammer to coax them off of the studs.

Even if the pistons are a bit stuck, it will be easier getting them out as the next step.

Anyway, that would be my approach!
 
Bored&Stroked said:
I would not use the spark plug holes - you only have 1/2" of threads and in these old aluminum heads, the threads are not that strong. I would try to soak the studs in something that eats up rust and corrosion and I'd use heat as a catalyst. I'd also consider pulling the rest of the pistons/rods (at least the outer 2 on both sides) - then you can use wooden 2x2 and a hammer to coax them off of the studs.

Even if the pistons are a bit stuck, it will be easier getting them out as the next step.

Anyway, that would be my approach!
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I removed five pistons from the bottom. The remaining three cannot be removed because they interfere with the main bearing webbing. Gonna keep soaking the studs for now.
 
The remaining three could be removed if you are prepared to smash them to bits in the process.

The existing five cylinders might be able to be pulled by passing a bolt through the plug hole and putting a big washer and nut underneath.

I made some head pullers that rested on the surrounding studs and pulled up via the plug threads. You could do that but use nuts and washers instead.

Edit: I found the video where I showed the tool, but I did cut lots out.

https://youtu.be/aVovv5EQya4?list=PLtwyFkFxie5jFiazVylTHMrri6-8w-LBI&t=1742
 
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After following this thread, I'm glad I've been able to accumulate 2 coffee cans full of good 8BA head bolts.:rolleyes:
 
Has anyone had any experience using one of these ? I’m considering buying one.
 

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Ken


One thing I found seemed to work for me on 'soaking" the studs on my Merc was AFTER each application, I would take my air blow gun and gently blow air around the base of the stud at the block THEN put a little more lube on the base and blow more air.....It seemed to "help" push what penetrating fluid down into the smallest of pockets....The third day of soaking for me was the charm!!!!
 
Thanks all: I was given an engine with SHARP heads stuck on it. Been two yrs soaking ? Newc
 
Talk about stuck, I bought a 59A engine with finned aluminum heads, cheep. So far, the head studs have been soaking with different solvents for about ten years and still the heads have not budged. I've tried putting compressed air into the cylinders with no luck. I have about twenty spare engines so it's no big deal, just a challenge to see if I can get the heads off without breaking any fins. Chances are they are eaten up and junk anyway.
 
In thinking about the heat induction tool, my kit included a large, open loop that would permit you to slip it over the head and heat the entire head this way. Maybe numerous heating and cooling cycles would get the process going a little faster.
 
Bored&Stroked said:
I wonder if dropping the whole block into some sort of rust killing solution might work? Just pondering out loud!
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I have used Rust 911 to soak rusty parts that were seized solid with excellent results. Not tried a full engine yet but will later in year. Most all my bare blocks get soaked in Rust 911. It also does an amazing job of cruddy fuel tanks and systems from ethanol. My other go to is Howes penetrant and lube. Amazing product.
 
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