Removing scratches on stainless
- Thread starter 1930marie
- Start date
Mike V. Florida
Well-known member
mike657894
Well-known member
find a local paint shop that has high numbered paper 2000 3000. i have polished hard stainless guns before. so i think this method would work for the stainless on a model a. the gun was investment cast started with 220 then 320 400 600 1000 1600 2000 3000 then polish with mothers mag polish. i use the mothers by hand becaue on a wheel it will pit slightly. but on the model a stuff probably start with 1000 or 2000 or start with polishing compound.
Kevin in NJ
Well-known member
You are asking a magic question.
Define scratches.
Do you mean something you can catch with a finger nail or maybe the point of a pin?
Is it scratches not gotten out by the restoration buffing process?
This is where the problem is with buffing as I have recently come to a better understanding.
You have to figure out how bad the scratches are and then guess which abrasive will make take out the scratch.
If it is some fine scratch try a buff with a rouge as suggested and see if that makes the surface look better to you. Keep in mind you are not likely to get out all of the scratch, just make it lesser and lesser till it looks good in sunlight.
Now if it is a scratch that you can feel with a finger nail then you are may need to start at 220 grit and work your way up to 2000 then the buffs. Lesser scratch can be pulled at finer grit. I am working some gas caps now and using 400 dry. I really should be at a slightly courser grit to cut down to the bottom of the scratch, but they are small and I do not mind working the 400 a bit longer. I would never do that on a radiator shell over a larger area. I would start at the 220 or so and work my way up.
You can try some 1000 grit and see if that cut you down to the bottom and then work your way up.
The problem will be a proper buffing tool. On the car would be risking paint. You will need something with the right surface speed and the correct bar for stainless cutting. Then you will need to do the rouge for coloring.
If you have not figure out already it is a lot of work to get the stainless to buff out. You also must buy quality paper like 3M, Meguires, norton. The cheap stuff does not cut well or long, I tried.
Define scratches.
Do you mean something you can catch with a finger nail or maybe the point of a pin?
Is it scratches not gotten out by the restoration buffing process?
This is where the problem is with buffing as I have recently come to a better understanding.
You have to figure out how bad the scratches are and then guess which abrasive will make take out the scratch.
If it is some fine scratch try a buff with a rouge as suggested and see if that makes the surface look better to you. Keep in mind you are not likely to get out all of the scratch, just make it lesser and lesser till it looks good in sunlight.
Now if it is a scratch that you can feel with a finger nail then you are may need to start at 220 grit and work your way up to 2000 then the buffs. Lesser scratch can be pulled at finer grit. I am working some gas caps now and using 400 dry. I really should be at a slightly courser grit to cut down to the bottom of the scratch, but they are small and I do not mind working the 400 a bit longer. I would never do that on a radiator shell over a larger area. I would start at the 220 or so and work my way up.
You can try some 1000 grit and see if that cut you down to the bottom and then work your way up.
The problem will be a proper buffing tool. On the car would be risking paint. You will need something with the right surface speed and the correct bar for stainless cutting. Then you will need to do the rouge for coloring.
If you have not figure out already it is a lot of work to get the stainless to buff out. You also must buy quality paper like 3M, Meguires, norton. The cheap stuff does not cut well or long, I tried.