Removing Rusty Tank Bolts

Rex Smith

Rex Smith

Member
All the bolts holding my gas tank in are seized by years of rust. I saw one post that said to use heat, however I'm not too keen on using heat near the gas tank. I'm also a little skeptical that I'm going to get all the bolts out even using heat. This truck is so rusty you can't even tell what color it used to be.
I can use all the advice I can get before I embark on this and mess things up.

thanks
 
You can actually boil gasoline with out it igniting. It's the vapors that you have to worry about. Heat of course does wonders for loosening up bolts but it is a bit dicey when working around a gas tank. A couple of options. You could drain all the fuel out of the tank and then fill it completely full of water before using a torch.
Since the bolts are of a small diameter you could just throw a couple of wrenches / vice grips on them and if they break replace them. I would think that finding correct bolts for the tank wouldn't be too dificult.
 
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Transmisson fluid and actone 50/50 mix or kroll soak bolts let stand for a few days or a week at least keep bolts wet with mix it will work on some if they are as rusted as you say you may wind up with a few broken bolts no matter what you do
 
I just removed a gas tank from my 29 CCPU a couple days ago. The bolts were very rusty, but I got most of them out without breaking them, however 3 of the 10 did break off. I used heat from an acetylene torch. I wouldn't worry about tank exploding. Just point the torch parallel to the bottom of the tank so not much heat goes to the tank. Heat works much better than penetrating oil, even though I do use penetrating oil sometimes.
Rusty Nelson
 
Aerokroil.
Run threading die up exposed threads if possible.
Heat would be good at this point (optional)
More aerokroil.
Go away for several hours
More Aerokroil
Remove with bare hands :D
 
I would use an ox/acc torch without worry. The flame is nowhere near the opening, and I'm guessing the tank hasn't had any gas in it for years.
 
Yes, there is gas in the tank. I actually drive this thing despite its condition. Kind of fun riding around in a rust bucket. Fixing it a piece at a time.
 
I use PB Blaster on all rusted hardware. No chance of catching fire. Soak them once or twice a day for a few days and they will break loose.

Do not use WD40 though unless you want more rust to form. :)
 
Automatic transmission fluid in an oil can. Put it on generously and let it set for a day. It works better than liquid wrench.
 
You mention thread nuts in the firewall, this tells me that it is a mid 30-31 truck. The straight head screws are fairly easy to remove. I use an old straight head screwdriver and a hammer. I use the screwdriver first like a chisel and jarr the screws first one way and then the other. I don't try to chisel them off but firmly jarr them to loosen the rust in the threads. after a couple of firm sideways jarrs with the screwdriver and hammer they will usually back out. Usually with any rusty bolts or screws, I first slightly tighten and then back them out. If a D nut in the upper firewall gets loosened or damaged they are available at low cost and very easy to replace. I have used this method on all of my 30-31 model A's and they were all so rusty that you couldn't tell what color that they use to be when I started on them. The nuts and bolts at the upper rear of the tank, I usually use two wrenches.
 
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