Removing Rear Wheel Bearings

Not my idea but someone on the forum suggested using self-stick sandpaper such as used for a sanding board. Stick it in the drum and move the lined shoe back and forth until all the lining surface was abraded.

As far as seal removal goes, I center punch the side of the seal and then screw into that punch hole a slide hammer. A couple of slides and it's out. If you have the old oversize seals it may take a couple of punch and slides.
 
Jim Parker Toronto said:
Pilotdave said:
Arcing shoes by hand is something I'd love to be able to do - are there specific fit tolerances at various locations along the brake shoe? Shaping of the end of the brake lining?

By rubbing the shoe on the newly turned drums, you can see where the shoe is touching the drum. Using a sanding block, sand this spot out, rub the drum again, and sand. As you progress, you will see more and more coverage of the shoe to the drum. When doing them by hand, I used a .002" feeler gauge all along the shoe. If I couldn't pull it out, I felt it was close enough. Then I located a arching machine, and bought it. Its a lot of work, but very worthwhile. The whole shoe should be touching the drum. Don't forget to chamfer the leading edges on each shoe.
Click to expand...

Jim...as I understand it
1) You arc the shoes to fit your drum for full contact, OK.
2) Now you install the shoes, adjust, and slide the drum into place.
3) Question. Do you take any further steps to assure the shoes are vertically centered.
By "vertically centered" I mean how do you insure the shoe doesn't contact the drum on one tip only?
Click to expand...
 
Craig Lewis said:
Jim Parker Toronto said:
Jim...as I understand it
1) You arc the shoes to fit your drum for full contact, OK.
2) Now you install the shoes, adjust, and slide the drum into place.
3) Question. Do you take any further steps to assure the shoes are vertically centered.
By "vertically centered" I mean how do you insure the shoe doesn't contact the drum on one tip only?[/QUOTE

No, I don't, but if one wanted too I suppose you could use the centering tool sold by suppliers, but I was not impressed with the one I bought.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
I have the tool sold for unswedging the bolts. Slides down over the bolts (0.5") and cuts the drum surface out around the bolt. Took me about 1 minute per bolt and all 5 were out. Next step will be to pull the seals on the rear hubs and check the condition of the hubs and bearings before we swedge the new drums onto the hubs.
 
I was having a very difficult time removing the seal. Look for a posting on this. I forgot who posted a picture.
1. I f you can find junk axle shaft cut it off so that you can use it as a fulcrum.
2 Go to Home Depot or Lowe's and buy a small Cat's Paw (carpenters use these to remove nails)- medium size - approximately $10-15.
3. Use the Cat's Paw on the axle shaft to pry out the seal. It will take about 2 minutes.
Vic:)
 
Pilotdave said:
Sounds like another clever approach! Now, if I just had a junk axle in the shop..... :)
Click to expand...

You really don't need to cut an axle. If you trim a piece of wood large enough to fill the inside of the bearing, and large enough so it won't go in the tapered axle hole, at about the same height as the bearing, it will give you a surface to use as a fulcrum base to pry the seal out. Clear as mud eh?
 
An update on removing the seals from my rear hubs. I used a small pry bar with an angled tip, slide it between inner wall of the seal and the outer end of the bearing and used the edge of the hub wall as the fulcrum. The pry bar applied at 2-3 different spots popped them out. This technique requires being able to firmly hold the hub in place - I locked it (sans brake drum) in the vise.

Initial inspection shows almost no wear - just a little scuffing on the end plates of the bearings. I'm planning to take them to the local Model A parts emporium and compare them to a new one to see if this suggests any need to replace them.
 
A word of caution in swedging the hub onto the drum. I bought the proper tool and had access to a press and did it myself. Just speaking for myself, Bad Idea!! I ruined a hub and new drum and ended up sending everything including the shoes to Bratton's . Sure wish I would have done it that way from the beginning. Very pleased with their work and would have been cheaper in the end. Good luck Ron
 
Easy way to remove the seal AND not damage it. I have removed hundereds this way. Remove the snap ring. Drop the hub/drum assembly on a concrete floor two or three times fro
m about 2 feet from the ground. The weight of the bearing will force the seal out without damaging the seal. It is noisy, so don't try it at 5AM.....
 
SteveB31 said:
Easy way to remove the seal AND not damage it. I have removed hundereds this way. Remove the snap ring. Drop the hub/drum assembly on a concrete floor two or three times fro
m about 2 feet from the ground. The weight of the bearing will force the seal out without damaging the seal. It is noisy, so don't try it at 5AM.....
Click to expand...

But..but...how are you going to sell all those new seals if everybody does this?

Just kidding, Steve. I appreciate how you look out for the customer.

However, unlesss I know the history of a seal and that it is not very old, I replace them anyway.

Joe
 
Sorry SteveB31, but if I saw someone (professional) doing this to my drums, I would question their mechanical skills. A new seal is around $5 and you probably need one anyway. Replacement in my mind is best if the seal has been installed.
 
As i do not own a seal puller, I used a roofing claw (about 1-1/2" wide) and it worked great to remove the seal with no damage to the hub
 
Freemans Garage in Norton Ma will arch the shoes to fit the drums.He just did mine last week. Phone 508 285 6500
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top