Removing rear end

mkmskm

mkmskm

Senior Member
I need to remove the rear end out of my Model A to get the transmission out, so I'm wanting to pull the rear out as one unit (spring attached). How high do I have to get the car up to do this? I'm concerned about the ceiling not being high enough in my garage to get the car up and the spring to clear coming out.
 
You can remove the rear wheels and put a floor jack under the center of the rear end. This will reduce the height you need the rear of the car to be.

Without measuring the hump in the rear cross member, I would think with the frame supported on jack stands and the rear axle hanging free, if you could drop the rear end down about another foot after you remove the U Bolt Clamps, that should be plenty.

Chris
 
You might consider removing the rear wheels, putting the frame on jack stands and using a dolly under the banjo housing after you remove the U-bolts on the rear cross member.



OPPS! Chris can type faster than I can!
 
denis4x4 said:
You might consider removing the rear wheels, putting the frame on jack stands and using a dolly under the banjo housing after you remove the U-bolts on the rear cross member.



OPPS! Chris can type faster than I can!
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No Problem,

It just goes to show you, All great minds think alike!!!

Chris
 
I've got a transmission jack I was going to use under the banjo and pull the wheels and then I've got some tall stands, I just hope my 8' ceiling the garage is enough.
 
ive had my rear out several times . what they say above is correct . i jack it up by the diff , take the wheels off , put jack stands by the rear running board mounts (frame) , take the clam shell out & remove the U bolt nutz , drop it down & pull it out . be sure you have room to pull the torque tgube out also ........ steve
 
Jack it up high enough to remove the rear wheels. Place the stands under the frame in front of the rear end so you can slide the entire rear and tube back once the u joint assembly is free. Place the jack under the rear end and remove the u bolts nuts; lower the jack and the entire rear end with spring should drop ( u may have to pry it out if the fit is tight ). I used dolly's (dollies) under the rear brake drums to help move it out of the way. First time I removed and installed the ****** by dropping the rear end from start to finish (driving into garage and back out) took me 18 hours non stop; second time it took less than 8.
 
I employ a slightly different approach to removing the rear end in order to remove the ****** etc. I have removed the rear end several times using the method that the others have described. The problem that I have is always getting the rear spring back into its correct position while attached to the axle. Also the car has to be jacked up pretty high in order to do this.

As a result, the next time I have to remove the rear end I will remove the rear wheels, drums, brakes and backing plates. Not that big a job. Floor jack under the differential.

Place jacks under the frame.

I will then spread the rear spring with a good, safe spring spreader (which I have) and remove the rear shackles.

Remove other parts, speedo drive, universal covers etc and pull the rear end.

Dick
 
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Hopefully the spring center bolt isn't rusty. I was taking apart an old drivetrain a few years ago. When I removed the 4 nuts from the u-bolts the first couple came easily, but the second two seemed to have tension on them right to the end. I never gave a thought to the center bolt being rusted through and not holding the spring pack together. When I got to the last thread the frame suddenly jumped about 2 feet in the air. Luckily I was behind the rear crossmember just far enough for it to clear my head.

Your 8 foot ceiling should be plenty good. I take the rear end out as mentioned above with the wheels off and the differential on a creeper or floor jack. I smear a bit of grease on the bottom center of the rear crossmember, so the spring will slip into place much easier. The grease also makes it easier to slip the spring back and forth if need be to get the bolt head into the hole.
 
Unless you want to work on the spring, I think removing the shackles and leaving the spring in as mentioned above is easier (and safer) and you need less clearance to do it that way than when removing the spring. I've never done it with a transmission jack, but its not too bad a job with the frame on stands and the wheels off using a floor jack. I have a small floor jack I use on the front and a large one under the pumpkin and roll it all out together.
 
I found a small furniture dolly and some blocking was good for lowering the torque tube on to to pull out, and to reposition the rear end assembly to reinstall. Job goes better with an assistant. Bob
 
Another thing that works to get it down lower than it would be with the banjo sitting on a floor jack is to put down a couple 2x4's under the brake drums and roll it out kinda like sitting on railroad rails. Brake drums roll nicely as long as they are up enough for the backing plates to clear the floor.
 
My garage ceiling is just under 8 foot high and I can just remove the rear axle with torque tube and spring attached from my Tudor.
 
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