Removing rear brake drum

mstover

mstover

Member
OK, I'm stumped again. I'm trying to remove the rear brake drum to begin my first inspection/repair of my 1930 coupe's brakes, which are virtually nonexistent. I've removed the axle nut and washer only I don't see a fiber seal as described in Les Andrew's book. I've tried a hub puller on the drum and it doesn't budge. Could there be a snap ring holding it in place? It appears there might be but the book doesn't mention this.

Any help you can give is well appreciated!
Mike
 
a missing fiber seal is not uncommon. When you use the puller, are you sure the E brake is released? The puller needs to be tightened quite tight and holding the drum requires engaging the E brake. Then the drum needs to be released from the brake. Then strike the end of the puller squarely with a heavy hammer. I f its still stuck, try some penetrating oil down the key slot, and try it again with a touch more torque on the puller screw. Worst cases can often be remedied by installing the axle nut loosely against the hub to hold it on but allow it to move, re installing the wheel and driving the car around the block, then try pulling the drum again.
 
After all above is done and if it's still stuck,with puller on and loaded,hit the side of hub nose hard with BFH=this well vib the nose and reless the tappered stuck hub from axle.
;):cool:
BFH=big fuing Hammer
 
I released the emergency brake (which makes sense) and hit the end of the hub puller with the BFH and it still doesn't budge. Maybe I'll pick a different wheel and see what happens.
 
You need to adj the brakes looser, buy turning the brake adj on the backing plate. It should turn counter clock wise to loosen count the clicks to get them back later.
 
It sounds like you have a stubborn one.. All the above is good advice.. A couple more options.. You could try jacking up that wheel, leaving the axle nut loose, install wheel loose, put it 3rd left the clutch out and get some wheel speed up and slam the brakes.. If it doesn't come loose after a couple tries then its time to punt.. Many don't like this next one,, but,, I turn the nut around and install it flush with the axle,, give it a whack.. If that doesn't do it,, then its time for a hub [not wheel stud] puller and some serious heat..
 
CAUTION!!!!!!!!!!!! A hub puller can POP the drum and puller off at any time. If left with a lot of pressure they have been known to explode off the axle with enough force to break things. Don't have anything in its path. Bob
 
Either buy (Winfield Tool Works, (631 928-3316) or borrow/rent a KR Wilson puller from a local club (Model A or early V8, they used the same puller). The puller is expensive but cheaper than a new axle.

Charlie Stephens
 
If you have some time, just leave your hub puller attached overnight. I have done this many times. Install the hub puller as tight as you can get it and just let it sit over night. Usually in the morning it will have popped loose. If need be, retighten the puller and then try the hammer again. So far, I have never failed to get one off or have I ever had to use heat of any kind to get one off. The fiber washer is stuck inside the end of the hub, around the end of the axle. You should be able to pick it out quite easely. And no, there is not any type of snap or lock ring.
 
knock off pullers or turning the nut around flush are old time and cheap ways of doing this job. It was used mostly when newer axles could be had for a song at most junk yards, use a good puller made for the job!
 
I suggest you purchase the puller below which matchey your hub style (CHECK THE DIAGRAM IN THE CATALOG) . I had a stubborn one ant this tool did the trickjfor me. I took the info below from the Bratton's catalog. Good luck.
Supergnat

REAR WHEEL HUB PULLERFor Year(s): 28-31

Opening at base of puller hooks into the ring on the hub. One inch bolt at end of puller must be tighten down aginst axle end to loosen hub from axle. Made from strong ductile iron. A copy of an early after market puller.
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Part #06150 REAR WHEEL HUB PULLER $ 31.00 REAR WHEEL HUB PULLERFor Year(s): 28-31

Opening at base of puller hooks into the groove on the hub. One inch bolt at end of puller must be tighten down aginst axle end to loosen hub from axle. Made from strong ductile iron. A copy of an early after market puller.
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Part #06160 REAR WHEEL HUB PULLER $ 31.00
 
I use a K O puller made witha nut with a short piece of steel welded on the end.Tighten puller after everyhit with a 4# hammer & with opposite wheel off the ground,it should pop loose.
 
I have one of the hub pullers made by Mitchel Mfg. It works great and is designed to work on either style hub, but like all of the posts above said, it takes putting the pressure of the puller plus the blows with the sledge hammer to get it to release.
 
Charlie Stephens said:
Either buy (Winfield Tool Works, (631 928-3316) or borrow/rent a KR Wilson puller from a local club (Model A or early V8, they used the same puller). The puller is expensive but cheaper than a new axle.

Charlie Stephens
Click to expand...

I'm having the same problem. I've got a tough one and am using one of the cheap (half-shell) pullers. I stopped because I was afraid it was going to damage the end of the axle with all the force I was putting on it. I am wondering if the KR Wilson puller is the answer. It has some features that seem much better. It sounds like you can pull any drum with it. Is that the answer for all of us?
 
Make sure everything is backed off. Keep putting pressure on the puller, whack the end with a big-*** hammer. If it does work, try again and again with heat, serious heat. Still doesn't work, Back the axle nut off 1/2 turn, drive around for awhile or year or so. Sometimes just jacking up that wheel with the nut backed off the 1/2 turn and driving the car on the jack while really slamming the brake will work.
 
Patrick L. said:
Make sure everything is backed off. Keep putting pressure on the puller, whack the end with a big-*** hammer. If it does work, try again and again with heat, serious heat. Still doesn't work, Back the axle nut off 1/2 turn, drive around for awhile or year or so. Sometimes just jacking up that wheel with the nut backed off the 1/2 turn and driving the car on the jack while really slamming the brake will work.
Click to expand...

I'm not sure I could make myself whack the end with a hammer. What does this do to the pinion gear at the other end in the differential? You are not the only one who gave this advice, but it doesn't sound good to me.

I may have to bite the bullet and get a first-class puller - The K R Wilson. From what I read it will get the toughest ones off without risking damage. Have any of you guys used it? Do you still have to whack it? I would like to avoid the whacking if possible.
 
Even if you get a 'good' puller, which is a good idea, a big 'whack' is in order. If it'll come loose without the whack, good, but, then it wasn't on that tight.
 
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