Removing paint

[Stan/MO.]

Sorry to keep bugging you guys...but I need advice on how to remove the paint on my coupe so I can get to the original paint. I can see the original paint in places...only had one repaint job since new. My guess is 1000 grit sandpaper, until the black starts showing up, and then 2000 the rest of the way. Let me know what you think.

Thanks

 

[Brentwood Bob]

There was a restorer article a few years back showing a car that was sanded thru to the original paint. I think the grit was 2000 all the way. Bob

 

[Barry B./ Ma.]

I tried to sand down to the original Bonney Gray on my tudor as it had a cheap coat of black enamel over the original but it seems that when they repainted it years ago they sanded off most of the original anyway so the enamel would bond. Finally I stripped it to metal with a 3" disc and started over.

 

[Craig Lewis]

I would begin with 1200 wet dry, then switch to 2000 as soon as the base colour starts to appear.
If 1200 seems too harsh, go with 1500 wet dry. It polishes quite well too...but without knowing the thickness of your base use some caution.
Also I would put a drop of dish detergent in the water bucket and let the paper soak for a few minutes... it will work better.
Finally, you might consider stopping the sanding process while a "haze" of the top coat still remains. This way you can cut polish off the haze only and remove a minumum of the original base paint.
Farecla G3 or G4 would be my choice of polish, used @ VERY slow speed with a moistened foam pad. Farecla seems expensive, but it keeps cutting FAR longer than the cheap stuff, so saves time. Also it's water base, saving time in final cleanup. Have fun ( my arms are aching already)

 

[Stan/MO.]

Thanks guys, I like the patina on the car now...but I'm an original paint freak....plus I like black.
Craig, I hear ya' on the arms...I did all the body work on my 48 1/2 ton, and before I was done I was thinkin' why oh why would anybody want to be a body man. It's definatley an art.
Thanks again guys