Removing Lug Nut from Spinning Stud

Mike1291

Mike1291

Senior Member
On the driver's side rear wheel, one of the studs is spinning on the drum, and I couldn't get the lug nut off. Dad and I were team tagging on trying different methods of getting it out. Cutting it, chiseling it, drilling it, you get it. Finally it looks like what you see in the picture. It's pretty bad. Is there any tips that you might be able to give to help me with my predicament?
 

Attachments

  • PXL_20240329_200446263.jpg
    PXL_20240329_200446263.jpg
    79.8 KB · Views: 217
If you sharpen a cold chisel to a steep angle and apply it to the nut with a 3 pound hammer, the nut will split.
Another way is to cut the stud off with a cutting torch or plasma cutter.
It is unlikely you will be able to install a new stud in the bad hole without welding it on the back side but this is NOT recommended.
A new drum is the best way.
 
Last edited:
I am planning on getting new drums for sure. But I think I'm past the point of breaking the nut in half with a chisel. The middle that you see is what remains of the stud and not the lug nut
 
Mike1291 said:
I am planning on getting new drums for sure. But I think I'm past the point of breaking the nut in half with a chisel. The middle that you see is what remains of the stud and not the lug nut
Click to expand...
did you try a lot of heat then hit with cold water or windex.
 
Get a Dremel with the reinforced cut-off wheels - get down to the wheel/lug on both sides the split the nut off !
 
Do you have an air compressor? Is the wheel that yellow part we see in the phot, meaning the wheel is still on the drum?
 
If the lug nut is still on the stud I would hold the nut with a wrench or visegrips and then drill the center with a 1/4 inch drill first and then go with a larger bit till it's gone.
 
take all the other nuts off and have someone to pry the wheel to put pressure on the problem one and use impact wrench to loosen,sometimes this will work.
 
I should clarify that the wheel is still on the car. As Gene observed the yellow is the rim. And I do have a 10 gal air compressor

I did try putting the car's weight on the wheel but no luck getting it free. I can try heating it up and cooling it, seeing if it expanding and contracting does something.

I've been drilling it but it's taking forever. Probably because I need new drill bits. Used cutting wheels before but the spokes of the rim make it tough to get any more of it
 
daveymc29 said:
Go to the inside of the drum and drill the stud, start 1/8" hole and work up.
Click to expand...

Seeing as how your problem is on a rear wheel. You will need one of these https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/product.htm?pid=978130&cat=41627 to remove the hub, then you can get at the back of the stud. DO NOT strike the end of the axle directly or you will regret it.
Alternatively, since the stud is sooo buggered up already , prying the wheel off might work but you will be up for another wheel. I doubt any spanner will hold on what is left of that nut.
 
Use an air grinder with a round head carbide burr bit to grind the nut and stud down.
You 10 gallon compressor probably will be pretty undersized for the task though.
 

Attachments

  • air grinder.jpg
    air grinder.jpg
    19.9 KB · Views: 10
I've actually tried using a carbide burr but every cutting implement I use becomes dull so quickly, even when I use cutting oil. I think I can try taking the rim off and drilling it using Synchro's method. Can I take the hub cap off like a hub cap on a steel wheel?
 
Mike1291 said:
I've actually tried using a carbide burr but every cutting implement I use becomes dull so quickly, even when I use cutting oil. I think I can try taking the rim off and drilling it using Synchro's method. Can I take the hub cap off like a hub cap on a steel wheel?
Click to expand...

I firmly believe that Henry made the hub caps to clip on, not bend over the tabs like guys do these days. (Poor quality reproduction pieces.) He wouldn't have wasted the time to do it. I would be surprised if the tabs on your hub caps are not bent over which means that to remove the cap would probably destroy it. They are cheap though.
 
It isn't perfectly clear to me, but it seems like the wheel is on the hub and the other lug nuts are off, but the remnant of the old lug nut is holding the wheel on. If that is correct, more judicious grinding with a carbide burr should allow the wheel to be removed and the hub/drum pulled off. Then the stud can be removed and a new stud put in properly or a new hub and drum used.

The OP may be able to clarify the full status of the various parts involved.
 
Bruce, you are correct. All the lug nuts are off except for this one. I believe that I need to invest in a good carbide burr set and a pneumatic die grinder and go from there. If not i'll take the drum off with the tool Synchro mentioned. I'm going to have to get a new rim anyways so I don't care if it's cosmetically damaged
 
I thought this stuff only happens to me. 2 minute job, remove rear wheel...5 days later and tools all over the place ...It eventually works out.
 
Use a hole saw to cut the rim off around the cantankerous stud, then you can get at it.
 
Mike, since your wheel is now trash, and you have air; Borrow a muffler gun from one of the guys in your local Model-A chapter. Sacrafice the wheel.

In other instances, take the hub cap off, and pull the cotter pin. An assistant puts prybars of some side from underneath (on jack stands of course), and put the axle nut back on so that it is flush. Cut a piece of steel or a drift punch on the axle. With tension on the drum (assistant) strike the axle with a good size hammer a few times. The drum/hub assembly will pop free in a few strikes. From there you can back the hub off, and pull every thing off the axle. Now you can flip everything over and work on it.

I never had pullers until I was older and could afford them. But I had a Grandfather that knew how to work on stuff, and do what ya had to do to get by. The stories that he and his brother told me about Model-As were memeorable.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top