removing lock cylinder from trunk handle

dodgeo

dodgeo

Junior Member
I'm trying to remove the lock cylinder from a 32-34 trunk or rumble seat handle.
I see the hole on the side of the handle and a peg in the cylinder, but how do you remove it?
Is it supposed to depress ? is it a screw ? or do you have to drill it out ?
Thanks for your help, Dodge
 
You will need the key.With key inserted you turn it so the groove is up and then take a very small punch or similar and push it in that hole to depress the pin.The lock assy then comes out by pulling on the key.If you don't have the key you need to find a locksmith that can pick that lock.There are 2 members on this site that do that kind of work.32phil comes to mind.J McClure is another but do not know his user ID.
 
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Unfortunately, if you do not have a working key (or the ability to pick the lock-to-turn), you cannot remove the cylinder using the above procedure. Usually the cylinder is sacraficed by drilling the retaining pin through the face of the cylinder. Then replace the cylinder with another correct cylinder (used in many other Ford trunk or spare tire lock applications). The plated cylinders (Hurd) are rarer than the stainless-clad (Briggs and Stratton), but both use the same key blank/groove.

FlatHeadCoupe aka John McClure
 
If no key send the entire handle to a smith that can make one from impression or pick the cylinder and remove it. Save the cylinder if at all possible! IMO all the early V8 trunk handle lock cylinders with out a cover used the Hurd cylinder due to their brass construction and the ability to stand up to moisture. The white metal B & S cylinders are good for the inside or covered lock cylinders.
 
I had a locked '39 trunk handle, with no key, that needed the lock cylinder removed so a key could be cut to the code numbers on the cylinder. I also found out that that lock cylinder needed to be in the open position before it could be removed from the handle. I sent the complete handle assembly to Leon Rowell, known as the "LockDoc" here on the Barn, and he picked the lock, removed the cylinder, and made some keys for me, all at a very reasonable price.
Unfortunately, I think Leon has retired as a locksmith, but the other locksmiths who are members here should be able to do this for you without the need to destroy the cylinder.
 
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I can remove your 32-34 trunk/rumble lock cylinder without drilling it out.
When I'm done and the handle is back in the car, you won't even know I touched it.
I've done quite a few for folks here on the Barn.
Give me a call.....soon... I'm going to Florida first week in January.
Phil .....845 551 5132...cell
 
Here is how I removed my lock cylinder. I used shim stock (very thin curved stainless) and while lifting the pins one by one I pushed the shim stock in between the barrel and the core. As each pin was lifted to the right height the shim stock moved forward into the lock.There will be 5 pins. At that point the lock can be rotated. Once the lock is rotated the cylinder can be removed as above described. Shim stock can be purchased off of the internet. This is a very simple process that anyone can do. A very effective pick to lift the pins can be made simply by using a piece of banding iron and shaping it on the grinding wheel.
 
I just removed the trunk lock cylinder from my '51 using this method, so I guess it's pretty universal for old Fords.
 
34FordFabricator said:
Here is how I removed my lock cylinder. I used shim stock (very thin curved stainless) and while lifting the pins one by one I pushed the shim stock in between the barrel and the core.....
Click to expand...

Sounds like a great method. But how thin is "very thin" shim stock? Seems like anything thin enough would not be stiff enough to push on without buckling. Thanks.
John
 
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There are several methods I employ in removing Hurd cylinders I don't have the key for.
Getting the cylinder out..... without "drilling it out" or damaging it..... is the easy part.
Cutting a key by the code # is easy too. Getting a 70+ year old lock to work smoothly....
now that's another story. Many cylinders I see today are crammed with old lubricants and everything else under the sun. In addition the plugs on top of cylinder are starting to corrode and fall out. After many years of use the brass pins are wearing out so they must be sized and replaced.
Last but not least the little internal springs in each section are now corroding and losing their tension as well.
I pretty much have to rebuild every lock that makes it to my bench.
 
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