jim1932
Well-known member
Wow, I totally missed how that works. Now that I see how it works, I think I might have to get a new tool...
Removing "junk motor" head
- Thread starter jim1932
- Start date
Wow, I totally missed how that works. Now that I see how it works, I think I might have to get a new tool...
Special Coupe Frank
Well-known member
It might not be as bad as you think...
The other year, I bought a 1930 A engine that previous owner had pulled from a Doodlebug, then stuck in in an open, wooden shed for 25 years. supposedly, the engine ran when it was taken out of the 'bug.
When I found it, it was stuck. I went ahead and bought it any way, as it had teh ****** too, and I figured I could recoup my investment in parts or scrap if it was junk as an engine.
When I say this engine saw some weathering, about half the cylinder head nuts were so badly eroded, they not longer had flats on them !
The spark plugs ( what was left of them ) were "take-apart" Champions, two of them had no nuts left from the upper "clamp ring" that holds the porcelain in the shell.
I put it on the side, in the shop, right-side up, pulled the plugs, and kept adding Marvel Mystery Oil to the cylinders, a few ozs every month.
After a few months, it finally loosened-up.
So, I decided to dig into it, and see what it looked inside.
The very eroded nuts were fitted with the nearest size six-point metric or SAE scoket.
The head nuts all removed nicely, and even the distributor too... and the head came-off rather easily, after rapping gently on all four edges with a 3# dead-blow hammer from Harbor Freight, then gently working a putty-knife, then a screwdrive between the block and head.
The head came-off with nothing more than my two hands and some patience.
You might be as lucky.
As for "what I found inside", so far I have found a lot of carbon, a deck with no cracks, and original (standard bore) Ford pistons and original Ford valves. So, then most work this engine probably saw was a valve-grind and maybe a re-ring, if that.
I still have to flip it and check-out the bottom-end.
Good luck with your project !
SC Frank
The other year, I bought a 1930 A engine that previous owner had pulled from a Doodlebug, then stuck in in an open, wooden shed for 25 years. supposedly, the engine ran when it was taken out of the 'bug.
When I found it, it was stuck. I went ahead and bought it any way, as it had teh ****** too, and I figured I could recoup my investment in parts or scrap if it was junk as an engine.
When I say this engine saw some weathering, about half the cylinder head nuts were so badly eroded, they not longer had flats on them !
The spark plugs ( what was left of them ) were "take-apart" Champions, two of them had no nuts left from the upper "clamp ring" that holds the porcelain in the shell.
I put it on the side, in the shop, right-side up, pulled the plugs, and kept adding Marvel Mystery Oil to the cylinders, a few ozs every month.
After a few months, it finally loosened-up.
So, I decided to dig into it, and see what it looked inside.
The very eroded nuts were fitted with the nearest size six-point metric or SAE scoket.
The head nuts all removed nicely, and even the distributor too... and the head came-off rather easily, after rapping gently on all four edges with a 3# dead-blow hammer from Harbor Freight, then gently working a putty-knife, then a screwdrive between the block and head.
The head came-off with nothing more than my two hands and some patience.
You might be as lucky.
As for "what I found inside", so far I have found a lot of carbon, a deck with no cracks, and original (standard bore) Ford pistons and original Ford valves. So, then most work this engine probably saw was a valve-grind and maybe a re-ring, if that.
I still have to flip it and check-out the bottom-end.
Good luck with your project !
SC Frank
tbirdtbird
BANNED
wow you have a goldmine of original parts
jim1932
Well-known member
Not quite. Most of the boxes have used parts in them. I like the old boxes though
tbirdtbird
BANNED
that's OK, I'd take used originals any day over repops
jim1932
Well-known member
Frank,
You are an inspiration! After two days of PB Blaster I worked on the head today. All the head nuts but two spun off with a breaker bar. The other two screwed out the studs (no big deal, nothing broke). The set screw holding the distributor looked rusted to heck but spun right out with the screwdriver. Slight pry with the screwdriver and the distributor came right out. One thing I may have been wrong on... when we tipped it over I thought water came out, now I think the oil separated (will it do that?). Shaft on distributor looked fine.
Tapped around the head lightly and could see a gap. So I sprayed the studs with blaster and gingerly with a screwdriver and light taps from a hammer and it came right off!
So, what seems to be going on? The spark plug for the rusty hole did not match and I am wondering if it sat without one plug and then some one screwed one in to keep crap out. There does not seem to be any issues with the gasket or surfaces (is this one copper gasket that separated? or two? So what are we looking at so far? I can't turn it over but haven't tried hard. Sprayed it with blaster, but will probably pull the pan next. Going to tear it all down anyway. Also does the height of the pistons look right? Shouldn't they be staggered? This is the first motor of any kind I tore apart so BIG learning curve.
You are an inspiration! After two days of PB Blaster I worked on the head today. All the head nuts but two spun off with a breaker bar. The other two screwed out the studs (no big deal, nothing broke). The set screw holding the distributor looked rusted to heck but spun right out with the screwdriver. Slight pry with the screwdriver and the distributor came right out. One thing I may have been wrong on... when we tipped it over I thought water came out, now I think the oil separated (will it do that?). Shaft on distributor looked fine.
Tapped around the head lightly and could see a gap. So I sprayed the studs with blaster and gingerly with a screwdriver and light taps from a hammer and it came right off!
So, what seems to be going on? The spark plug for the rusty hole did not match and I am wondering if it sat without one plug and then some one screwed one in to keep crap out. There does not seem to be any issues with the gasket or surfaces (is this one copper gasket that separated? or two? So what are we looking at so far? I can't turn it over but haven't tried hard. Sprayed it with blaster, but will probably pull the pan next. Going to tear it all down anyway. Also does the height of the pistons look right? Shouldn't they be staggered? This is the first motor of any kind I tore apart so BIG learning curve.
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billy myers
Member
use a counterbore drill bit like the one used for removeing wheelstuds on brake drums then fill with ****** fluie and acetone mixture
jim1932
Well-known member
OK.... I'm an idiot anyway. What is this in english?
tbirdtbird
BANNED
the engine always stops in the same place....just like yours is now.
broommaker
Senior Member
I just removed the head off of an engine I purchased last summer, it was stuck. It had head bolts, not studs, which made is easier. I used then wedges at each corner of the head and sprayed in the gasket area using kronoil, I was in no hurry, every few days I hammered the wedges a little tighter and more kronoil and just a short time ago the head come lose. This is just an extra engine. No ridge at the top of the cylinder walls, piston tops looked new with .060 pistons, lucked out so far.....
Jim