Removing ignition switch / lock?

John Mc

John Mc

Senior Member
Please pardon my "rookieness" here because I'm sure this is "old hat" to many but I'm trying to remove the ignition switch/column lock on my '39. First off, I cannot remove the key from the cylinder. It will move left to right about 90 degrees but will not release. Is there a trick here? Also, do I have to remove the hardened screw? Not sure how to proceed here. I'll also go to the shop manual and see what I find. Thanks for all the info and Happy New Year to all!
 
You have to drill out the lock retaining pin that is located on the lower side of the column mount housing. Once this pin is drilled out the lock assembly can be removed.
When you turn the lock does the locking bolt move in and out?
When you get the lock assembly out of the housing you can lubricate the inner portion of the locking bolt so it travels freely in an out.
 
Thanks Bill. No, there is no movement except the key which as I noted does move but cannot be removed. Is the bolt to be drilled out hardened? Thanks again.
 
John
If it were me, I'd try this. Lubricate the hell out of the thing (WD40), then try turning the key and at the same time push in on the plunger (steering lock pin). Doing so may allow the lock cylinder to turn. Maybe worth a try.
I don't think the cylinder lock pin Bill was talking about is hardened, but you've got to be real careful if you try to drill it out.
Jim
 
JOHN; No its not hardened, just crnter pinch and drill, not to deep, about 3/16 to 1/4" if you start getting brass your to deep. with the pin out the key/cylinder will come right out...LUBE , HEAT & TAP,TAP, on it .....35 JM should jump in here he has good information on Henry's anti-theft device,....OLD...BILL
 
I have a copy of instructions with sketches that Don Rogers put together on how to disassemble a 35-36 column drop/ignition switch with locking cylinder. I could send you a copy of that. Also, flatheadfan has a good write up with pictures that he would send you if you PM him.
 
If you jump over to the early ford v8 web site and scroll down a bit you will find where I just posted how I changed one on a 40. the pin is soft and not awfully deep so go slow and I would start with maybe a 1/8 drill and work up. there is a small recess in the lock cyl. that the pin fits in.
 
Kahuna said:
John
If it were me, I'd try this. Lubricate the hell out of the thing (WD40), then try turning the key and at the same time push in on the plunger (steering lock pin). Doing so may allow the lock cylinder to turn. Maybe worth a try.
I don't think the cylinder lock pin Bill was talking about is hardened, but you've got to be real careful if you try to drill it out.
Jim
Click to expand...

I agree, lubing it up might free it so you don't need to disasseble it. They key should turn 180*. But if it doesn't work smooth you may decide to disassemble it, they do sell repop lock cylinders to replace your worn originals.

When I did mine I didn't just drill it out, I actually just drilled an 1/8 hole about 1/4" deep, then I tapped the hole for a #10 screw. I put the screw in my slide hammer and it popped out clean in two hits. It wasn't hardened.

The new lock cylinder will come with a new pin, but I chose to tap the original hole and put a set screw in there with some locktite. Lets face it, if someone is going to steal a car like this it's probably gonna get picked up by a rollback not some guy laying under the dash trying to hotwire it and disable ol' Henry's column lock.
 
Got it all out guys, thanks for all the great tips. I did finally get the key and the cylinder out. Just took lots of WD40 and time. It was rust-frozen. You know though that Henry's idea was pretty amazing when one considers that the rest of the auto world did not have such a device until the Feds mandate of 1970.
 
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