removing ignition cable clamp; need to drain antifreeze?

Barry in St.Paul

Barry in St.Paul

Senior Member
I have an original pop-out switch and cable, and it is impossible to remove the distributor without also removing the cable's hold-down clamp on the engine head stud.
If I remove that head-nut to get the distributor off, do I also need to drain (at least partially) the coolant system? Will loosening one stud allow a leak at the head-gasket?
thanks!
 
ok, that is what I figured, unless folks KNEW for sure it stays tight enough to prevent any chance of a leak. I'll drain a gallon or two off before removing the nut....
thanks!
 
Up until last fall, I would have said probably not...

Up until last fall, I would have said probably not...
Over the years, I took a lot of the clamps off without draining the water part way down...never had a problem until last fall. I removed the bolt and clamp to remove the distributor to re-torque the head on a fresh rebuild and the water ran into a cylinder. The process was started late in the evening and finished the next morning so it had plenty of time. Not aware of the leakage, I started the engine with the water/antifreeze in the crankcase and the "goop" it put in the valve chamber and pan was beyond flushing. I had to remove the pan and valve chamber cover to get it clean.
icon9.gif
It won't happen to me again! I now partially drain the coolant down.
Good Day!
Dave in MN
 
I made a fix by running a second head nut on the #8 stud and fitting a bolt that captures the clamp against the second nut. Works fine and you can pull the dist. any time without fuss.
 
Barry in St.Paul said:
Perfect! Thanks Bruce! I still have not gotten into the habit of searching 'archives' on this new site.... (is there a way to get anything past the last few months yet? Doesn't seem to be, unless I'm not looking in the right place)
Click to expand...

"the last few months" :):)

This forum has only been active for six weeks!

Now: ask the obvious question! When will we be able to search the archives of "the OLD FordBarn?" :(:(
 
BillLee, yeah, that is what I meant; I recall promises that the old archives would be MORE easily searchable, but have not seen that feature yet. Waiting patiently, I know taking over this site is a big job, and I've been pleased with the results so far!
Art, that is a good idea, and I've wondered why that wasn't done originally... I'll bet there were a lot of cables that never got 're-clamped' the first time that nut had to come off. Or, as others have pointed out, people simply popped the nut off and on without worrying about a leak. :-)
 
Yes! Yes!Yes! Drain of some anti freeze Why take a chance? I did not even think about draining any fluid and it cost me a complete rebuild of my block. Let it set to long after changing the cable. Richard/Ca
 
Alternative Ignition Cable Clamp Setup

To avoid having to loosen the number 8 stud to remove the ignition cable and risk gasket issues, accurate re-torque and other potential head problems, here is what I did (see picture below). I took the clamp off - turned it upside down and sqeezed it back onto the cable. I then loosely put another nut on top of the head nut. Used a shortened bolt threaded into the top nut to hold the clamp down.
 

Attachments

  • DSC01013.JPG
    DSC01013.JPG
    19.7 KB · Views: 154
Re: Up until last fall, I would have said probably not...

Dave in MN said:
Up until last fall, I would have said probably not...
Over the years, I took a lot of the clamps off without draining the water part way down...never had a problem until last fall. I removed the bolt and clamp to remove the distributor to re-torque the head on a fresh rebuild and the water ran into a cylinder. The process was started late in the evening and finished the next morning so it had plenty of time. Not aware of the leakage, I started the engine with the water/antifreeze in the crankcase and the "goop" it put in the valve chamber and pan was beyond flushing. I had to remove the pan and valve chamber cover to get it clean.
icon9.gif
It won't happen to me again! I now partially drain the coolant down.
Good Day!
Dave in MN
Click to expand...

Dave have you seen this wrench? You do not have to remove dist to torque head. Saves much time!

Bert's has them also.


http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/4326
 
Re: Up until last fall, I would have said probably not...

Benson said:
Dave have you seen this wrench? You do not have to remove dist to torque head. Saves much time!

Bert's has them also.


http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/4326
Click to expand...

Thanks for the post...yes, I have one of those wrench attachments...actually had one, as in I borrowed it out and had not gotten it back when I needed it.

I am continuing to learn as I get older....but unfortunately I am forgetting at a faster rate.

Good day!
Dave in MN
 
Before I spent $31 on a wrench for a (hopefully) one time use, I would try to borrow one, try an older non-dealer garage or use a crow's foot wrench, that with a short extension should work fine. Try a machine shop vendor. Ideal Machinery in Plainville, CT comes to mind.
Paul in CT
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top