Removing head studs from a 59L block

R

russcc

Well-known member
Some of the studs in the block need to be removed and replaced. Have a good stud puller that grips the stud well, but some of them are so stubborn to the point they will break off for sure. Broke one already. Have tried heat & cooling cycles, Kroil, acetone & ATF, and plenty of patience. Probably been in there for 60 plus years. Any suggestions I should try ? Thank you Fordbarners.
 
I used a tool I got from Northern Tools and my impact wrench.
The tool looks like a drill chuck and has a 7/8" nut-like top.
Put it over the stud and turn it counter-clockwise so it grips the stud.
Then use you impact wrench in reverse on a low setting and start pulling the trigger in spurts. Go slow and you'll see the stud starting to turn. Keep going slow in spurts. Worked for me.
 
Thank you, I will check that out the impact tool. The article from Red's header is about drilling out broken head studs. As a former machinist, I know how to take out broken ones, but, I do not want to break any off, The purpose of my post is find the best ways to get them out without breaking them. Thank you all for your response.
 
Some of them will break no matter what you do to try an save them if they feel like there gonna twist of with your puller, and your puller grips the stud right down at the block face. A different puller is gonna do the same thing.
Some times the knocker gun will do the job, sometimes it'll snap them.
As a machinist, drilling them out shouldn't pose a problem.
Martin.
 
After many years of working hard to not break any off I have come to the conclusion that it is easier to break them, then tig weld a washer---then a nut to the washer, when cooled pop the nub out with the impact---worst case it takes a second washer/nut, the threads are not damaged, it has worked on studs that hours of penetrating oil, heat has not loosened

A mig welder can be used but it doesn't work near as well because not as much heat is put into the broke off piece and not as good a weld----the mig welder does work pretty good for small screws in aluminum--for this I have some scrap copper sheet that I make a hole in to weld through so there is no damage
 
Slide a washer down over the unbroken stud and let it lay on the block, then weld the washer to the stud. Let it cool down and try the stud removal tool. The heat from the weld will help break loose the stud from the block and the weld will help the stud from breaking.
 
^^^^^ Have done dozens of studs with a tig welder and haven't been stumped.(30 + years with a tig)
There is a little more to just welding a washer and nut to accomplish the removal.
Someone with a average mig welder will get the nut welded on but you need to control the heat to get it done correctly.Yes many have been removed with a mig with sucess.This is because the operator is a weldor.Owning a mig and sticking a couple of pieces steel together doesn't always make you an accomplished weldor.The stud should be quenched with a candle as it is cooling to let the wax seep into the seized thread.The stud shouldn't be removed until it is cool to the touch.As Kurt mentions some times it will take a second weld to get it done.You have nowhere the heat control with a mig as compared to a tig with a foot pedal.Once you begin the stud drilling as a removal operation there is also a high degree of skill to get the job done and remain in the center of the stud,once you deviate from the center the fun really begins.I have removed many botched jobs with broken drills stud removers and others. Welding with a tig or a skilled operator with a mig will get these broken items out with a high degree of sucess.Those who shy away from the welding system really have no real hands on as a qualified weldor. Remove it any you choose but reading posts from some doesn't always have creditable info.

R
 
I just retrieved a broken off bottomed out tap on a Detroit Series 60 diesel engine . This tap was broken off in one of the exhaust manifold boltholes. I used the next size smaller flat washer and mig welded the washer to the recessed tap. I then welded a rod connector nut to the washer. Let cool down and unscrewed the broken off tap out of the block. This spot was not easily accessed by a tig torch so I opted for my trusty mig and years of welding experience.
The tap came right out without any thread damage.
Vic
 
Thank you all. Good experience here and tips I have already put to use. So far, 60 studs, (2 motors), broke 1, my stupidity, pushed a little to hard, not enough patience.
 
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