Removing flathead head studs........

The acetone just Thins Out the trans fluid to make it penetrate the rust easier, but the
acetone evaporates VERY fast (the warmer the temperature, the faster it evapotates)
so in a short time, (hours, NOT days) all that is left is the trans fluid trying to do all the
penetrating, so KEEP spraying on the 50-50 mix VERY often, for maximum penatrating results. :)


Do your own test, and put some trans fluid in a small Open container,
and put some acetone in a small Open container, and you will see
that the trans fluid does NOT evaporate, but the acetone evaporates
within hours, depending on the temperature, No more 50-50 mix. :eek:




.
 
Just pulling this thread back up from the early V8 section to see if I can get some help.

Having trouble removing head studs from an A block. I have always used PB Blaster Penetrating Catalyst on the lower threads and tap on the lower side a little for two - three days before trying to remove studs. Was able to get two out, but two broke off even with the block. I will be putting all new grade 8 studs back in.

I saw in the thread that some use a 50/50 mix of Acetone & AT Fluid. Is this a better material to dry and loosen the stuck lower thread in the block? If it is were can I get Acetone in CA?
 
old28 said:
Just pulling this thread back up from the early V8 section to see if I can get some help.

Having trouble removing head studs from an A block. I have always used PB Blaster Penetrating Catalyst on the lower threads and tap on the lower side a little for two - three days before trying to remove studs. Was able to get two out, but two broke off even with the block. I will be putting all new grade 8 studs back in.

I saw in the thread that some use a 50/50 mix of Acetone & AT Fluid. Is this a better material to dry and loosen the stuck lower thread in the block? If it is were can I get Acetone in CA?
Click to expand...
Home Depot, http://www.homedepot.com/s/acetone?NCNI-5 I am sure it is not as strong as it used to be (funny, I have the same problem).

Charlie Stephens
 
Talk to Roy Nacewicz of Ford Bolt.com. He is the man. Or you can try your local Fastenal. Take the bolt in and they will size it and get them ordered.
 
Just had a engine (with studs) done (added three sleeves) at a local shop with tons of experience with flatheads for a lot of years. Had to remove all the studs , the stud bolt holes most all of them had some hairline cracks around the block threads , i mentioned this and the shop said looks like they were all over torqued into the block on installation. Pretty minor little cracks, and we used sealer when the studs were reinstalled etc. But worth noting i believe ??????
 
Well thanks guys for the information. As I said before, been spraying BP Blaster each day & tapping on the studs a little. I am using a collet type remover and to make sure it was grabbing the stud at the lowest point I cut all the studs that were still in the block off so the collet remover was on the block.
Got 12 of the 14 out and 2 broke off (sure they were original ford studs. As I don't have much in this block, I am going to use a stud removal jig to remove the 2 broken studs and install over size bottom thread studs in the two holes. I'll let you know how it goes.
 
Generally speaking, flatheads use three different lengths of studs with the shortest ones along the bottom edge. I reuse original studs on my '32 V8s for one simple reason, namely that no one offers replacements of the same length as the originals, which are shorter than the '33 and up studs.
 
I have a 36 21 stud engine witch is all together and i would like to pull the heads to check the bores. I do not want to break studs and as most studs enter the water jacket and rust on the bottom of stud to the block I was thinking of standing the block up on its fly wheel end and filling the water jacket up with diesel or ATF and acetone and let it soak for awhile to let it penetrate. any one try this ? or what do you think? Bill
 
Ol' Ron said:
As for removing the studs, try soaking them in the 50/50 mix for a few days. Unfortunately, nobody makes "Ford" studs, especially longer ones for thicker heads. I did use studs on my Hydro engine and the Bville engine. I would never do that again.
24 bolts torqued to 50 ft/lbs have a clamping force of 1200 lbs. A blown 392 Hemi has 10 studs torqued to #100 lbs which is onlu 1000 lbs of clamping force. Makes you think alittle.
Click to expand...


Ol' Ron, not to pick pepper out of knat ****, torque and bolt tension (clamping force) are not the same. They are related but not the same.

Here's a good little article on the topic.
http://www.portlandbolt.com/technical/faqs/tension-vs-torque-explained-sort-of/
 
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