Removing engine from 54 Lincoln

B

B-ster

Senior Member
Hello again. I'm in the process of taking the 317 from my
54 lincoln capri. Man are those heads heavy.
My first question is...
How many bolts hold the ****** to the engine? When the engine comes out, does the torque converter stay on the ****** or motor?
As a refresher, there are 68k miles on the engine, it was parked inside since 1965. The plugs were removed sometime since parked along with the carb, which is missing. It does turn, not stuck.
When I removed the carpet from the interior, there was a spot about the size of a football of surface rust, no holes. Just gonna wire wheel it with my drill. The frame and rockers, floor pans, fenders, trunk all rust free. Not a single sign of rust, no holes. All brightwork inside and out are present.
I know the steering and suspension will be redone but as long as there's no welding or body work to do, it will be easier.
Don't know what to do once the motor comes out, probably take the heads in for resurfacing and rebuild them. Doesn't seem to be too difficult a job. Now the block, that's another story. No idea what to do about that. Open to ideas.
Thanks for the help folks
 
If you wanna know what's heavy, try picking up a Ford Y-block head (272/292/312).
To remove trans to engine bolts, you will need to pull the floorcovering back (or remove) at the transmission hump. You will see several large rubber plugs that you can pop out (probably about 5 of them). Each of those gives access to a trans to engine bolt, but those only remove the bellhousing. You may also want to go under the car to remove the converter to flexplate bolts, unless you want to attempt to pull the engine block with the converter attached (I do NOT recommend doing it that way as it is too easy to damage the flexplate or the converter hub).
If you do unbolt the converter from the flexplate, be certain to block the converter inside the bellhousing with a length of bailing wire tied between two bellhousing bolt-holes otherwise it can fall out and become damaged.
You will need to somehow lift the engine block slightly and pull almost directly forward to keep from damaging the converter hub if you choose to pull the converter hub still attached to the flexplate. If you are doing this, it is best to get a rolling floor jack under the back of the engine oil-pan to keep the converter hub from falling on the front pump main shaft and breaking off the converter hub dogs. I'd hate to think what one of those cost now (even if you could find one), certainly well over $100 just for that one piece.
 
In addition, I would also temporarily disconnect the gear shift link and passing gear link to the transmission case as the trans may move slightly down vertically, even if you have a jack under the trans fluid pan. Once you begin lifting the engine block out of the dog house, the relief from the weight of the engine will cause the car frame to rise and the trans case will sag down toward the front.
If possible, try tying heavy duty fabric straps or chains under the transmission and around the car frame rails to keep the trans relatively stable in height with relation to the car floor.
 
I didn't try starting it since the plugs and carb were missing. There was a lot of mouse droppings everywhere in the he car. I didn't want to miss ve the engine until I saw the innerds in case there was debris in the cylinders, which there was. Small pieces of rust and debris. The heads are really gunked up with old oil that looks like grease. It really needs a good cleaning and inspection.
I think I'm just going to take the engine and transmission out together and seperate them after.
 
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