removing engine and transmission

[nhusa]

My memory is kaput these days but I seem to recall putting a short length of dogchain under the trans so it wouldn't fall on the ground after it was disconnected from the engine. Check my pics under my profile, "My 30 coupe"
Terry

Terry - Thanks for the heads up about the chain. I am getting ready to remove the motor from MY 31 TS and was wondering how I was going to support the transmission after removal so I could free up the floor jack for other projects.

 

[Purdy Swoft]

One advantage of the floor jack is that you can raise or lower the transmission as needed to make reinstallation of the engine easier. Years ago I didn't even have a floor jack.

 

[Tom Wesenberg]

I have used a short 2 x 4 and a ratchet strap to hold the ******, and this works very well. A year ago I fianally built a ****** hoist, and find this the best.

 

[nhusa]

Thanks - I will use the Jack during the removal and install process. All I needed was a way to support the transmission in between.

I considered some blocks of wood but that would stop me from moving the car around if needed.

BTW it is on 4 wheel dollies to make it easy to move in the garage.


Tom Nice rig but it is a bit too complicated for my simple mind!


I assume that the frame spreader is because the rear motor mounts fold in a bit over time and can be made with a piece of sturdy pipe and some good sized bolts, nuts and washers if needed - or even machine leveling legs.

 

[Dave in MN]

If you do not plan to remove the bellhousing and transmission, the transmission and bellhousing will hang from the torque tube without damaging anything. I do this all the time...just use some care when working on it to avoid damage. It needs to be lifted when installing the engine. If you are concerned with the unsupported weight, leave the front radius ball attached to the bellhousing and the weight will be divided to lessen the stress on the universal joint housing.
Good Day!

 

[CarlG]

This is what I use: Adjusts fore & aft; side to side; tilts right & left; up and down.

 

[Tom Wesenberg]

I've only needed to spread the frame a slight amount twice, so there's a good chance you won't need it unless you install new rubber pads on the motor mounts, and they are too thick. The pads I bought from Snyder's are the correct thickness.

 

[CarlG]

I used the 4" bolt with the head cut off and tapered trick a couple of weeks ago. I did have a friend helping me who has done dozens of Model A engines. He said that little trick made my engine the easiest of any he has done.

 

[Mike V. Florida]

I used the 4" bolt with the head cut off and tapered trick a couple of weeks ago. I did have a friend helping me who has done dozens of Model A engines. He said that little trick made my engine the easiest of any he has done.

I've done several engines alone with little problem. I went to help a friend with his and he handed me some threaded rod pieces.

I'll tell you, like above, it was the easiest of any one I've ever done.
I have one suggestion to make it even better, in the end that sticks out, cut a slot or grind a hex to aid in removal of the studs in case the engine twists a little binding the studs.