Removing body sound deadener

B

Bruce/CT

Well-known member
Hi Barners,

My Cowl and Rear quarters are covered with a think black goop which must have been sound deadener ( Body Shutz??) It is intact. Should I leave it alone or remove it?

If I decide to remove it here is my plan. I will gently heat it with a heat gun and scrape it off.

Anyone have any easier ideas?
Bruce/CT
 
That's what I did. I found the heat gun on low range did a good job and nothing got too hot. I used a putty knife to start and then went bsck with a razor blade scraper to clean up. I then wiped the panels with laquer thinner and yhey were as Henry made them. I had some places on the cowl that were almost 1/2" thick and I used the gun on high there. I think I spent about 6 or 7 hours to do my '40.
 
I did the complete whole inside and underside of the floor on my 51 Vicky with a heat gun and putty knife, after removal with the putty knife I cleaned the residue with mineral spirits and chore girl ? scouring pads that look like extra corse steel wool ( from the dollar store) & mineral spirits and rags. it is a messy project but floors came out like new metal.
 
Stuff is intact>>>should i remove it??

Thanks for the replies.
The deadener is solidly bonded to metal. Should I remove in areas that I'm NOT doing body work? Obviously, if I'm welding on the panel I need the stuff off.
Bruce/CT​
 
If you are not doing any body work or welding, I would leave it in those areas, providing there is no rust.
 
 
jdl said:
I did the complete whole inside and underside of the floor on my 51 Vicky with a heat gun and putty knife, after removal with the putty knife I cleaned the residue with mineral spirits and chore girl ? scouring pads that look like extra corse steel wool ( from the dollar store) & mineral spirits and rags. it is a messy project but floors came out like new metal.
Click to expand...

The sound deadener served two purposes, one to deaden sound and the other to protect the metal from rust. Now, enjoy putting something similar back on there to do what it was intended to do before you took it off. LOL
 
I stripped the underside of my merc coupe in about 4 hours using a few very sharp wood chisels and NO heat.
I tried the heat at first but that only made the body deadener sticky and harder to remove. Once you get get under the edge with a sharp chisel it just peels off
 

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I use a torch with the Eastwood lead tip and just use acetylene only no oxy low heat flame and a scraper than wipe down with degreaser
 
Thanks all,

I think, in the interest of time and reducing effort that I will leave it on areas that have no rust, the stuff is intact and I plan no body work. Body areas needing work, especially drivers side cowl I will strip. I have some frame welding ( another story for another day) below the outer side of the passenger rear seat. Once I separate the body and frame I may not need to remove deadener there. We'll see.
Bruce/CT
 
I did the complete whole inside and underside of the floor on my 51 Vicky with a heat gun and putty knife, after removal with the putty knife I cleaned the residue with mineral spirits and chore girl ? scouring pads that look like extra corse steel wool ( from the dollar store) & mineral spirits and rags. it is a messy project but floors came out like new metal.



Lawson Cox said:
The sound deadener served two purposes, one to deaden sound and the other to protect the metal from rust. Now, enjoy putting something similar back on there to do what it was intended to do before you took it off. LOL
Click to expand...

I did ,after getting it clean, I repaired,primered & painted first then, undercoated underneth & sound deadned all the interior, using a special spray gun made for the sound deadner, then painted it all again, the body was off the frame so it was easier to get to..... I might have pictures if anyone is interested....jdl
 
Before..
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After..
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Underside showing some before & some after

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Interior after painting but before sound deadner
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I found that there were some spots where there was rust under the tar, so I deciced to remove it all. I feel the current products to seal seams and pinch welds are superior to the tar, and better sound deadener materials are also available. JMHO
 
Guys ;you heat the metal on the back [other] side from the underseal ,it only takes a little heat to soften the bond next to the metal and it will peel off in strips one can then roll it into a ball with bare hand .there no fires or burned hands ,a small propane torch works well .for a large area like the floor two people would be better one to heat and one to scrape.Johnny an old body man.
 
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