Removing bearings from hubs

M

Macdozer

Senior Member
How is the best way to remove the inner bearing from hubs?

I want to inspect and clean and repack.

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Is it best replace the seal or can they be reused?



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I would come at it from the other side with a round piece of wood (old hammer handles work great) and a hammer. And I would replace any seals that are there. Better to replace them now then be faced with the "would'a, could'a, shoulda's" down the road.
That's my shade tree approach.
 
Once you drive the seal out, the bearing should just drop out unless there's something seriously wrong.
 
Any hard wood round handle that will fit in the hub. If the seal is okay re-use it. Those old C/R seals are better than todays seals.
Bruce
 
Put the hub back on the spindle without the outer bearing ,the race can remain,and screw the nut on a few turns then grab the drum and give it a jerk towards you.
 
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I am not sure it is by the book but I usually remove the seal with a large screwdriver and a claw hammer. Don't even think of reusing the seal. Once the seal is out the caged rollers will come right out. If the inner race needs to be replaced tap it out from the outside with a punch. Once the grease is off you will see the ridge that holds the inner race has slots so you can place the punch against the race. Of course tap a little at each slot to keep the race in line with the bore. This is from my experience with A's and B's and I assume yours is the same.

Charlie Stephens
 
42merc said:
If the seal looks good , reuse it.
Click to expand...

Please, unless there are no other new, quality seals to be had, put that old part in your junk pile.

And not one more word about it.:p

As to driving the race, it may take time, alternating side to side. When installing the new race pay attention to the sound as you thump it in. You want to hear a change in the pitch. As the race seats home the thump becomes becomes deeper because the shock is being transferred to the hub.
 
What he said!

Put the hub back on the spindle without the outer bearing ,the race can remain,and screw the nut on a few turns then grab the drum and give it a jerk towards you.
Last edited by Ken/Alabama; Yesterday at 02:17 PM.
 
^^ I never thought of that method before. Essentially it is the same as driving the bearing out and taking the seal with it, like mentioned before, but using the nut to hold the bearing and seal on the spindle and the inertia of the hub to yank em out. A good idea, I like it. It saves having to use any more tools than what is already right there.

Mart.
 
Looks like it to me. If you're still unsure,measure it with a vernier caliper; that should tell you for sure.
 
Wheel bearing grease that is used on semis will last the lifetime.
We can easily drive 500 000 miles with one set of bearings. ( some of them even have 600 000 mile warranty in them)
 
vilanar said:
Wheel bearing grease that is used on semis will last the lifetime.
We can easily drive 500 000 miles with one set of bearings. ( some of them even have 600 000 mile warranty in them)
Click to expand...

Need to speak about semis, having lived the life for twenty years. They -(the steer and trailer hubs)- do not run on 'axle grease' rather they use lube oil as we refer to as gear oil. The weights range from 75W to 85w-140 depending on climate.

They need service at regular specified intervals of PM. The industry and the DOT encourage the drivers to daily monitor hub levels. Drive axle hubs, however, receive lube from the differential, checked by the tech during PMs.

Lighter duty steer axle with grease pack, in highway use, need change service at 100,000. Heavy duty (18 whl. / 'gear oil') also need service at 100,000.

Synthetic lube oil can be run in highway use ,long haul, 250,000 for steer and trailer hubs. Differentials, which supply drive hubs, can run synthetic oil up to 500,000.:)
 
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