Removing and Reinstalling the Engine

David in San Antonio

David in San Antonio

Well-known member
To pull the engine is it best / easiest / fastest to remove the whole bellhousing, clutch, and transmission with the block?
And presuming you’ve done it a few times already, have an engine hoist, jacks, and an able-bodied assistant, about how many hours do you allocate? This would include headlight bar, grill shell, radiator, hood rods, hood - the whole shebang.
I’m sure the first time is slower.
Is there a step by step set of instructions anywhere?
The Wretched Roadster has been off the road since March and I’m hoping the long, frustrating saga of engine replacement is almost done. I’ve learned a lot so far, some technical lessons, some life lessons. The life lessons have been more expensive and probably much more valuable.
 
I remove radiator, starter motor, manifolds/carb and throttle linkage (very important). I have done it both ways re: headlight bar, but at this point given how much of a PITA it is to reinstall the headlight bar I think I'll leave it in from now on. Once you get the engine free from the transmission you can lift it a bit, turn it 90 degrees and move it out over the fenders. Removing the water pump and fan can get you some forward clearance.

I disconnect between flywheel housing and bell housing, leaving flywheel housing and ****** in.

A floor jack under the ****** to change angles is your friend.

First time through with a helper and all your tools, I'd allocate 4-5 hours for removal. 3-4 hours for install, because you'll know what you're doing.

Hint: if you have Float-a-Motors they need to be removed from the engine before you try to pull it out of the engine compartment.
 
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I did not listen to the U tubes so maybe somebody mentioned this.

In my book one of the most time saving things you can do is to remove the throttle linkage assembly from rear of engine.

DO this first thing BEFORE attempting to remove engine.

Since 1962 I have seen MANY hours wasted trying to straighten the throttle linkage after R and R of engine. It is a MAJOR PIA if you have to do this operation.

What happens is that the linkage gets all bent out of shape then much time is spent straightening the damaged linkage.

It is trial and error ... over and over.
A total waste of time and effort which is not necessary!

2. Be sure that you do not lose the two brass, C shaped shims under the two ears on flywheel cover.

Sometimes shims fall out when linkage is removed OR for sure when parts are disassembled.

Install linkage after engine is installed that way it will not get bent out of shape.
 
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If you leave the transmission in the car, you have to support it, with a jack to adjust angles as mentioned above.
 
Benson said:
I did not listen to the U tubes so maybe somebody mentioned this.

In my book one of the most time saving thing you can do is to remove the throttle linkage assembly from rear of engine.

DO this first thing BEFORE attempting to remove engine.

Since 1962 I have seen MANY hours wasted trying to straighten the throttle linkage after R and R of engine. It is a MAJOR PIA if you have to do this operation.

What happens is that the linkage gets all bent out of shape then much time is spent straightening the damaged linkage.

It is trial and error ... over and over.
A total waste of time and effort which is not necessary!

2. Be sure that you do not lose the two brass, C shaped shims under the two ears on flywheel cover.

Sometimes shims fall out when linkage is removed OR for sure when parts are disassembled.

Install linkage after engine is installed that way it will not get bent out of shape.
Click to expand...
YES, remove the throttle linkage before you try to pull the engine, and reinstall it after the engine is in place!

Benson, thanks so much for bringing this up. I totally agree, and forgot to mention both the throttle linkage and the shims in my summary. Those shims are between the flywheel housing and the engine, so when you remove the throttle linkage they will be free.

And on a new engine install - measure the gap between the flywheel housing and the block with the flywheel housing snugged up except for those top two bolts. That will tell you how many shims you need. Last engine I built I had 0.020" on one ear and 0.022" on the other, so I used two shims @ 0.010" in each side.
 
I measure the thickness of the gasket between the housing and the block. I've been seeing .013 as the thickness of the gaskets. I try to match this thickness at the top.
 
JayJay said:
And on a new engine install - measure the gap between the flywheel housing and the block with the flywheel housing snugged up except for those top two bolts. That will tell you how many shims you need. Last engine I built I had 0.020" on one ear and 0.022" on the other, so I used two shims @ 0.010" in each side.
Click to expand...

What is the significance of the gap of the two top bolts?
Ed
 
There is a gasket that goes between the flywheel housing and the block. This gasket forms the oil seal at the rear of the camshaft. This gasket does not extend to the two upper mounting bolts. If you tighten the two upper bolts without properly shimming between the flywheel housing and the block at those locations, a couple of things might happen:

You will cant the flywheel housing forwards, which moves the axis of everything that bolts onto the rear of it (including the transmission) out of alignment with the crankshaft. This can cause clutch chatter.

You may warp the flywheel housing so the mounting surface is not flat

Worst case I suppose you might break the ears off the flywheel housing since it’s a casting, although I’ve never seen this.
 
I was told to leave out the gasket between the housing and the block and put a ring of sealant around where the camshaft bearing is. Then you can safely leave out the bolt gaskets. It has worked fine on my car for 15 years.
 
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