Removing an Air Maze filter

Dave Young

Dave Young

Member
Had a leak from my carburetor (29 Tudor) and saw that the Air Maze filter
(mounted directly below it) was soaked with gas.

Reading back over the many threads about the advantages and disadvantages of air filters, I've decided the risk of a fire there is more than I'm willing to take. I've stopped the leak, but I think I want to eliminate the
filter. Simple enough to remove the filter cartridge, but what needs to be done about the filter holder and the U-shape connector to the carburetor?
Is leaving it there (in case I later change my mind) a problem or do I need to remove it ... and do what?

Thanks for your advice.
 
Whether to use an air filter or not has got a lot of attention on this board. If you've fixed your leaky carburetor there's really no reason to remove the filter--if you think you'd like to have one. If it was "soaked," you probably had one of the paper filter inserts. I think they come originally with a wire mesh filter (which is what I have) that is not likely, or as likely, to get soaked. I'm not sure if you can get the mesh filter separately if someone before you threw that part away. I know you can get the paper filters. Maybe somebody else knows.

Anyway, Hoovercw is correct, there's just a set screw to remove the whole thing.
 
Wire mesh ONLY traps BUTTERFLYS/ROCKS! Use a HIGH-MOUNT air cleaner, with a K&N element & you won't GRIND out your RINGS!
Bill Cleanair
 
Boy, I sure miss the days when we cleaned something up and re-used it instead of throwing it away. I think one of the major things wrong with our society is throwing something away instead of re-using it. The old stone or pumice gas filters, the wire-mesh air filteres, and the toilet paper oil filters. Whoops, you couldn’t re-use one of those.

Mike
 
To answer Pal Al question, 3 filters were tried: the mesh, the paper and the washable K&N 6" long. The latter fit the air maze housing and carb. and required very slight carb idle air adjustments compared to no filter. The 1st 2 required more idle adjustment due to air restriction though we have no empirical numbers data to prove this. Other threads suggest the 5.5" or the 6" K&N seem to work OK due to the length of filter medium.
 
duke36 said:
To answer Pal Al question, 3 filters were tried: the mesh, the paper and the washable K&N 6" long. The latter fit the air maze housing and carb. and required very slight carb idle air adjustments compared to no filter. The 1st 2 required more idle adjustment due to air restriction though we have no empirical numbers data to prove this. Other threads suggest the 5.5" or the 6" K&N seem to work OK due to the length of filter medium.
Click to expand...

Thank you Duke
Have heard the horror stories of a backfire and then an engine compartment fire. Thought the high boy K&N after market air filter may be a safer option.
Al
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
Wire mesh should be soaked in oil so it traps the dust. When dirty you can rinse in gas and reoil.
Click to expand...

How exactly does this work? Wouldn't the oil drain out of the wire mesh and down to fill the lower cover? Is there a specific oil for this? I have a wire mesh filter but it has always been run dry. I tried a paper one, but it messed with the idle, and the fire thing concerns me.
 
Well, some interesting replies, but nobody has actually answered my question. I'll try again ...

Will simply removing the filter cartridge be acceptable or, should I remove the whole thing including the U-pipe connector to the carburetor. Anything to be added in its place?

Thanks. Dave
 
I think Hoovercw pretty much answered your question. No nee to only take out the filter element and leave the rest. The set screw is the only thing that holds the whole thing on the carburetor air intake. If you leave it on you risk loosing it as the set screw is likely to loosen.
 
Dave Young said:
Well, some interesting replies, but nobody has actually answered my question. I'll try again ...

Will simply removing the filter cartridge be acceptable or, should I remove the whole thing including the U-pipe connector to the carburetor. Anything to be added in its place?

Thanks. Dave
Click to expand...

Yes, you can just take the filter off leaving the U-shaped tube.
You can also take the whole thing off with the one and only set screw holding it on.
No, there is nothing that goes on in its place.

Stock carbs had no filter. Odd, because roads were so dusty back then. Oh well....
 
PalAl said:
Bill, would the High Boy K&N offered for a Model A change any carb adjustments? Mainly the idle. Is there an air restriction with this type filter? Are you running one? If so do you like it?
Thanks
Click to expand...
They provide WAY more air than needed. I sold Vermin which had a VINTAGE, hang down wire mesh filter. The re-pro SMALL paper element is TOO small & makes one run WAY TOO RICH. It's a JOKE & VERY apt to cause a FIRE! They make a LONGER element & a LONGER rod for it, that's a SEMI-JOKE & still prone to FIRES!
Just use the HIGH MOUNT filter with a K&N filter element & be done with it. I'm TIRED of preaching this!
I'd give you a DISGUSTED Smiley Face, but they don't work anymore?????
 
They cause more problems than they will ever solve . Besides that, they are ugly and are not original . Henry didn't think that an air filter was needed , he must have been right !!! Probably more model A's have survived than any of the other cars of the time and they survived without a filter .
 
mfarley said:
How exactly does this work? Wouldn't the oil drain out of the wire mesh and down to fill the lower cover? Is there a specific oil for this? I have a wire mesh filter but it has always been run dry. I tried a paper one, but it messed with the idle, and the fire thing concerns me.
Click to expand...



Saturate the screen and let it drip back into the container of oil. After 5 minutes of dripping, install it, and the screen with a light oil coating should trap a lot of dust. Lots of lawn mowers used an oil wetted screen that needed to be rinsed in gas and re oiled.
 
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