Removing an A engine head, using a commercially available puller

The problem with that tool is that it does not pull up uniformly. The head gets cocked and because of that binds on the studs. He ended up using a screw driver to pry on the opposite side. It would be better if there were plates that reached the other studs on the other side of the head. That would require some sort of bridge to span over the water passage.
 
Remove distributor, head nuts, and top hose.

Now turn the engine over. It should just pop up.
 
I use that same head puller except I drill and tapped it to install "Allthread studs" to continue to push the head studs thru the head after the puller plates bottom out . That way I don't have to use pry bars.

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Never had an issue with the head cocking nor used wedges.
 

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I unscrew as many studs as I can using locking jam nuts, then pull the head using an engine hoist. Once the gasket pops the head comes off easily. First time on an old engine can be a challenge, though.
 
Yeah, if the starter has power and the engine turns over, the rope method, or simply allowing compression to do the job, should be your first approach. Use the mechanical advantage that’s already there. Head pullers are usually only needed when the engine is out of the car or a key component like the starter or battery is missing.

A nice thing about the rope method is that, as shown in the video, the rope holds the head up off the block so you can get a grip on it.
 
alexiskai said:
Yeah, if the starter has power and the engine turns over, the rope method, or simply allowing compression to do the job, should be your first approach.
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It also works on the engine stand without a starter installed. Just turn the crank briskly with a wrench or the crank tool. Same thing happens. The only time it doesn't work is when the crank won't turn or the pistons are stuck.
 
All this is for heads that just stubborn,not truly stuck.I have a head puller made from 3/4 plate,that pulls from all four plug holes.That puller has pulled the threads out of all four plug holes before.I've removed a few with a 12 pound sledge before.I've had a few that the head nuts look like the running board bolts,just domes.My puller is dirty and rusty from my fire,and is stashed away in a storage trailer.When I get it out I will get pictures of it.
 
Chuck Sea/Tac said:
What bothers me though, is the possibility of bending a rod? I don’t know, maybe it couldn’t happen?
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Old wives tale, think about what happens every time the spark plugs fire, a lot of pressure ! Using rope isn’t like a liquid lock the rope does compress some

Thanks P.S. for posting your videos !
 
Big hammer said:
Old wives tale, think about what happens every time the spark plugs fire, a lot of pressure ! Using rope isn’t like a liquid lock the rope does compress some

Thanks P.S. for posting your videos !
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I’m with Chuck. As we often see on here, most actual cylinder pressures vary from 40 to maybe 120 psi depending on engine condition and cylinder head CR. That’s home air compressor range! Those really translate to compression amounts. Rope has been proven to compress or collapse to a certain amount. After a certain point, it doesn’t compress any further and something will give. Most likely the rods, if the head doesn’t move

Yes, it worked in this video, and will others. But there are engines where it won’t! It’s not a one size fits all solution if you don’t know what you’re doing.
 
Keith True said:
All this is for heads that just stubborn,not truly stuck.I have a head puller made from 3/4 plate,that pulls from all four plug holes.That puller has pulled the threads out of all four plug holes before.I've removed a few with a 12 pound sledge before.I've had a few that the head nuts look like the running board bolts,just domes.My puller is dirty and rusty from my fire,and is stashed away in a storage trailer.When I get it out I will get pictures of it.
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Do you use your engine hoist to handle it? 😃
 
It does weigh more than the head.It was built by a machinist in the 60's.As a machinist he hated the idea of driving wedges in those engines,he said there wasn't enough head studs to begin with,and any divots on the block would create more problems.That puller pulls from all 4 plug holes.It has 12 threaded holes for the studs,and starts the pull with bolts screwed up from the bottom.When the head comes up far enough to contact the bolt heads,the puller can be removed,and the bolts reversed.Then with the bolts protruding down through the bottom,they go down into the stud holes to pull the head up some more.The only problem with it has been that it doesn't involve the two studs for the water outlet,and that can be a problem.
 
Another tip - if you absolutely feel that you need wedges, you can try using plastic door shim wedges from your favorite big box DIY store, they won’t scratch the mating surfaces. They stack on themselves to get thicker than 1/4”. Just be sure when you put them in on the passenger side that you aren’t hitting a valve.

I find that a 2x4 on edge carefully under the water pump bump out can loosen up the front of a head enough to get started.

Once you get the front gooseneck off you may have enough unthreaded bolt to get a bolt extractor on and remove those two studs. That will give you lots of options for the front of the head as well as make removing it much easier once you get it loose.
 
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If you use wedges, make sure you miss the valves so you won't bend them. I have used felling wedges, available at your local chainsaw store.
 
nkaminar said:
The problem with that tool is that it does not pull up uniformly. The head gets cocked and because of that binds on the studs. He ended up using a screw driver to pry on the opposite side. It would be better if there were plates that reached the other studs on the other side of the head. That would require some sort of bridge to span over the water passage.
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the screwdriver was not to pry up the head, the head was already loose, so if you will watch again; the next thing I did was grab my gloves, to lift it off, so I had enough space to lift it, as it kept sliding back down, it was so loose.
:rolleyes:
 
I just heat the stud then give it a dab of lard or wax. Shock the studs/ head with a air chisel.
This usually works. Also, If you can remove the water neck studs first this helps.
 
I don't know if this is true, sounds crazy to me!

With the nuts backed off to the top of the studs, put a few drops of gasoline in the spark plug holes, replace the plugs, wire them together and energize at the same time.

Has anyone heard of this being done or is it just someone's idea of a joke? I know I'm definitely not going to test it out!
 
Model "A" Fords said:
I don't know if this is true, sounds crazy to me!

With the nuts backed off to the top of the studs, put a few drops of gasoline in the spark plug holes, replace the plugs, wire them together and energize at the same time.

Has anyone heard of this being done or is it just someone's idea of a joke? I know I'm definitely not going to test it out!
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I would think that intentionally having a combustion with one or more valves open would not be a good idea. I have heard of backing off all head nuts and running the engine. But I think if that was such a good idea and so simple we’d all be doing it instead of fighting the head off some other way.
 
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